The Century Cook Book(txt+pdf+epub+mobi电子书下载)


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The Century Cook Book

The Century Cook Book试读:

APHORISMS—BRILLAT-SAVARIN.

Les animaux se repaissent; l’homme mange; l’homme d’esprit seul sait manger.

Dis moi ce que tu manges, je te dirai ce que tu es.

Le Créateur, en obligeant l’homme à manger pour vivre, l’y invite par l’appêtit et l’en récompense par le plaisir.

La table est le seul endroit où l’on ne s’ennuie jamais pendant la première heure.

La découverte d’un mets nouveau fait plus pour le bonheur du genre humain que la découverte d’une étoile.

L’ordre des comestibles est des plus substantiels aux plus légers.

L’ordre des boissons est des plus tempérées aux plus fumeuses et aux plus parfumées.

On devient cuisinier mais on naît rôtisseur.

Attendre trop longtemps un convive retardataire est un manque d’égards pour tous ceux qui sont présent.

Celui qui reçoit ses amis, et ne donne aucun soin personnel au repas qui leur est préparé, n’est pas digne d’avoir des amis.

La maîtresse de la maison doit toujours s’assurer que le café est excellent, et le maître, que les liqueurs sont de premier choix.

TIME TABLE.

BOILING.MEATS.Time.per poundMutton15 minutes.30 to 35 min.Potted Beef ““Corned Beef “30 minutes.“Ham18 to 20 min. ““Turkey “15 minutes.““Chicken “15 “Fowl “20 to 30 min.“Tripe “3 to 5 hours.“FISH.Time.6 minutes.Codfish ““Haddock “  “6 “Halibut“ “15 ““Blue ““10 Bass ““10 “10 to 15 min.Salmon ““Small Fish “6 minutes.“ Lobster30 to 40 min.VEGETABLES.Time.Potatoes20 to 30 min.Asparagus“20 to 25 “Peas15 to 20 String Beans“20 to 30 Lima“30 to 40 Spinach“15 to 20 Turnips30 minutes.Beets30 min. or more.Cabbage“20 “Cauliflower20 Brussels Sprouts10 to 15 min.“Onions30 to 40 Parsnips“30 to 40 “Green Corn20 to 25 Macaroni20 minutes.Rice15 to 20 min.BAKING.MEATS.Time.per pound,Beef, ribs, rare8 to 10 min.“ “ well done“12 to 15 ““ “ boned & rolled“12 to 15 ““Round of Beef12 to 15 ““Mutton, leg, rare10 minutes.

“ “   well done““15

“ loin, rare““8

“ shoulder, stuffed““15

“ saddle, rare““9 “Lamb, well done“15 “Veal,18 to 20 min.“Pork,20 minutes.“Venison, rare“10 “Chicken“15 ““Goose18 Fillet, hot oven30 minutes.Braised Meats3 to 4 hours.Liver, whole2 hours.Turkey, 8 lbs1¾ “

“ very large“3 Birds, small, hot oven15 to 20 min.Ducks, tame45 minutes.“ wild, very hot oven“15 Partridge35 to 40 min.Grouse20 to 25  “FISH.Time.Large Fish1 hour, about.20 to 30 min.SmallTime.Bread1 hour.Biscuits20 minutes.Cake20 to 45 min.Custards, very slow oven1 hour.BROILING.Time.Steak, 1 inch thick8 to 10 min.“ 1½ “10 to 15 “Mutton Chops, French8 minutes.

“  “ English“10 Spring Chicken“20 Quail8 to 10 min.Grouse15 minutes.Squabs10 to 15 min.Shad, Bluefish, Trout“15 to 25 “Small Fish5 to 10

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

=4 gills1 pint.2 pints1 quart.=4 quarts1 gallon.=16 ounce1 pound.=½ kitchen cupful1 gill.=1 kitchen cupful½ pint or 2 gills.=4 kitchen cupfuls1 quart.=2 cupfuls of }granulated sugar1 pound.=2½ cupfuls of powdered sugar1 heaping tablespoonful of =1 ounce.sugar1 heaping }tablespoonful of 2 oz. or ¼ cupful.=butterButter size of an egg1 cupful of butter½ pound.=4 cupfuls of flour}1 pound.=1 heaping quart8 round tablespoonfuls of dry 1 cupful.=material16 tablespoonfuls of 1 cupful.=liquidPROPORTIONS5 to 8 eggs to 1 quart of milk for custards.3 to 4 eggs to 1 pint of milk for custards.1 saltspoonful of salt to 1 quart of milk for custards.1 teaspoonful of vanilla to 1 quart of milk for custards.2 ounces of gelatine to 1¾ quarts of liquid.4 heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch to 1 quart of milk.3 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder to 1 quart of flour.1 even teaspoonful of baking-powder to 1 cupful of flour.1 teaspoonful of soda to 1 pint of sour milk.1 teaspoonful of soda to ½ pint of molasses.1 teaspoonful of baking-powder is the equivalent of ½ teaspoonfulof soda and 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar.

For other proportions, see page 340.For measuring, see page 77.

PREFACE

In France various honors are awarded to cooks. Accomplished chefs de cuisine are by compliment called cordon-bleu, which is an ancient and princely order. A successful culinary production takes the name of the inventor, and by it his fame often lasts longer than that of many men who have achieved positions in the learned professions. Cooking is there esteemed a service of especial merit, hence France ranks all nations in gastronomy.

Although definite honors are not conferred on cooks elsewhere, good cooking is everywhere appreciated, and there is no reason why it should not be the rule instead of the exception. In large establishments it may be said to prevail, but in many moderate households the daily fare is of a quality which satisfies no other sense than that of hunger, the hygienic requirements and esthetic possibilities being quite unknown or disregarded. This is what Savarin designates as feeding, in contradistinction to dining.

The author believes that the women of to-day, because of their higher education, have a better understanding of domestic duties; that hygiene, economy, system, and methods are better understood and more generally practised. Children are not only more sensibly clothed, but they are more wholesomely fed, and households are directed with more intelligent care.

It is hoped that this book will inculcate a desire to learn the simple principles of cooking for the benefits which such knowledge will give, and that it will be of material assistance to any woman who wishes to establish and maintain a well-ordered cuisine. Receipts are given for simple and inexpensive as well as elaborate and costly dishes, and they are intended to be of use to the inexperienced as well as to the trained cook. The rules are given in precise language, with definite measurement and time, so that no supervision by the mistress will be required for any receipt given the cook.

At the head of each chapter are given the general rules for the dishes included in that class. Economy, practicability, and the resources of the average kitchen have been constantly borne in mind.

The illustrations, it is believed, will aid materially in serving dishes, as they complete and demonstrate the receipts. Many of them are given to attract attention to very simple dishes, which might be selected as suited to one’s convenience, but which might otherwise be overlooked in a hasty perusal of the text. The pictures are from photographs of dishes, many of which are not too difficult for a novice to undertake.

The author has fortunately been able to secure from Susan Coolidge a number of receipts of New England dishes; also a few distinctively Southern dishes from an equally experienced Southern housekeeper. These, she hopes, will enable many who have strayed from home to enjoy again the dishes associated with other times and places.

Much care has been taken to give a complete alphabetical index, so that anything in the book can be quickly found, even if the ordinary classification is not understood.

The chapters on etiquette, serving, etc., are meant to aid those young housekeepers who, from lack of observation or experience, find themselves at a loss to remember small details when the responsibility of an entertainment falls upon them for the first time.

The author, in speaking of this book to friends, has had various questions asked and suggestions given, by which she has endeavored to profit. Some of the questions have been the following:

“Have you given receipts suitable for a family of two or three?”

“Have you given expedients, so if articles called for in the receipts are not at hand others may be substituted?”

“Is your book only for rich people?”

“Is it not a mistake to use French names, which many do not understand?” etc., etc.

In deference to the last suggestion, she has explained the meaning of certain classes of dishes known only by the French names, and which would lose character if translated. A soufflé, for instance, has no special significance when called “inflated,” but the word soufflé defines the class of dishes which are inflated, and is so generally understood that it is almost an Anglicized word.

The terms Soufflés, Pâtés, Timbales, Hors-d'œuvres, Entrées, etc., are as distinctive as Stews, Hashes, Creams, etc.; hence there seems no other way than to learn the culinary nomenclature as one partakes of the dishes.

The author strongly urges the trial of new dishes, and breaking away from the routine of habit. The preparation of so-called fancy dishes is very simple. A little attention given to ornamentation and garnishing, making dishes attractive in appearance as well as taste, will raise the standard of cooking without necessarily increasing the expense.

PART I

DINNER-GIVING AND THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS

“To feed were best at home;From thence, the sauce to meat is ceremony,Meeting were bare without it.”—ShakspereA dinner party may be considered as holding the highest rank among entertainments. In no other social function is etiquette so strictly observed. There are prescribed rules for the form of the invitation, the manner of assigning each guest his place at the table, the manner of serving the dinner, etc.; and when these rules are followed there need be no embarrassments.The Company. It should always be remembered that the social part of the entertainment is on a higher plane than the gastronomic one, though the latter must by no means be slighted. A sentiment expressed by the wit who said, “A fig for your bill of fare, give me a bill of your company,” is generally felt, and a hostess should bring together only such people as she believes will be mutually agreeable.

The idea, given by Goldsmith in his “Retaliation,” of looking upon one’s friends as so many pleasant dishes, is offered as a suggestion. He says:If our landlord supplies us with beef and with fish,Let each guest bring himself, and he brings the best dish:Our Dean shall be venison, just fresh from the plains;Our Burke shall be tongue, with a garnish of brains;Our Will shall be wild fowl of excellent flavour,And Dick with his pepper shall heighten the savour;Our Cumberland’s sweetbread its place shall obtain,And Douglas is pudding, substantial and plain;Our Garrick’s a salad, for in him we seeOil, vinegar, sugar, and saltness agree:...At a dinner so various—at such a repast,Who’d not be a glutton, and stick to the last?The Host and Hostess. The hostess should give her instructions for the details of the entertainment so explicitly that on the arrival of the guests she will have no care other than their pleasure.

If she is nervous, has wandering eyes, or shows constraint, it affects sensibly the ease of her guests. The spirit of pleasure is infectious, and upon the demeanor of the hosts the success of the evening largely depends. Much tact may be shown in placing the right people together at the table. If one is a great talker let the other be a good listener; if one is dogmatic let the other be without positive views, and so on; for as every one is happiest when appearing well, it is wise to consider the idiosyncrasies of the guests.’T is a great point in a gallery how you hang your pictures; and not less in society how you seat your party.The Guests. The part of the hosts is thus well defined; but the guests, too, have their obligations, and in recognition of the compliment of being included in an entertainment where the number of guests is limited to very few, each one should make exertion to be agreeable, as a dull dinner companion is a recognized misfortune. At a dinner there is time, not given at most other forms of entertainment, for rational and sustained conversation, and this may be turned to durance vile if one victimizes by egotism or caprice the person who without power of withdrawal is assigned to his or her society for perhaps two hours or more. Also, if one finds oneself neighbor to some person for whom one has a personal antipathy, it must not be allowed to interfere with the general pleasure; and should such a situation occur, there is nothing to do but to make the best of it, and conceal from the hostess the mistake she has unwittingly made—And do as adversaries do in law,Strive mightily, but eat and drink as friends.

Under these circumstances the discovery may possibly be made that an unfriendly person is more agreeable than was supposed, and a pleasanter relationship may be established.Time. Two hours is the extreme limit of time that should be given to a dinner; one hour and a quarter, or a half, is preferable. Eight courses served quickly, but without seeming haste, require as much time as most people can sit at the table without fatigue. Last impressions are as enduring as first ones, so it is important not to surfeit, forWhen fatigue enters into so-called pleasure, failure begins.

Judgment shown in combination of dishes, the perfection of their preparation, careful serving, and taste in adornment, are elements of refinement that far outweigh quantity and ostentation.Temperature. The temperature and ventilation of the dining-room should be given careful attention. The best of spirits and the brightest wit will flag in an overheated, ill-ventilated room. It is not always easy to maintain a fresh atmosphere where as many guests are seated as the size of the room permits, but at least the room can be well aired before the dinner is served. Windows opened a very little from both the top and bottom in an adjoining room, with a careful adjustment of screens to protect those who are sensitive to drafts, will do much to keep the air fresh, and will have a sensible effect upon the comfort and mental activity of the company.The Invitation. Invitations are sometimes sent out a month or three weeks in advance, but ordinarily two weeks is sufficient time to secure the guests one wishes to entertain. Courtesy requires a dinner invitation to be answered at once, certainly within twelve hours, but better in less time. This enables the hostess to fill the vacancy in case the invitation is declined. Unconventional people are sometimes unmindful of this obligation, but as a rule those who are accustomed to entertaining recognize the importance of a prompt reply, and answer a dinner invitation immediately.

It is well, when convenient, to send the invitation as well as the reply by hand, so that there may be no uncertainty of prompt delivery; to send either of them by post is, however, permissible.

The answer should be definite, and where a man and his wife are invited, if one of them is unable to accept, the invitation should be declined for both. An invitation should be precise in expression, therefore the prescribed form given below should be exactly followed. It does not belong to the order of social notes; it is simply a formal invitation, and an acceptance should be of the same character. Any deviation from the prescribed form is uncalled for and likely to cause criticism. In declining the invitation, however, it is considered more gracious to answer the formal note informally, and, by stating the reason, show that the regret is not merely a perfunctory expression.

Verbal invitations or replies should never be given for formal entertainments. R. S. V. P. should not be put on a dinner invitation. Every well-bred person knows an answer is necessary, and it is a reflection upon good manners to assume that no reply would be given if the request for it were omitted.

It is important also that the reply should repeat, in the same words as the invitation, the date and hour of the dinner, so, if any mistake has inadvertently been made, it may be corrected, thus establishing an exact understanding.

A dinner engagement is the most exacting of any social obligation, and no greater discourtesy can be shown than to break it except for serious cause.Form of Invitation. Mr. and Mrs. James J. Jamesrequest the pleasure ofMr. and Mrs. Smith’scompany at dinner, on Monday,December twenty-third, ateight o’clock.99 West A Street,Dec. 1st.

Envelop addressed to Mrs. John B. Smith.Reply. Mr. and Mrs. John B. Smithaccept with pleasureMr. and Mrs. James’skind invitation to dinner onMonday, December twenty-third,at eight o’clock.66 West B Street,Dec. 1st.

Envelop addressed to Mrs. James J. James.Mr. and Mrs. John B. Smithregret that they are unable to acceptMr. and Mrs. James’skind invitation to dinner onMonday, December twenty-third,at eight o’clock.66 West B Street,Dec. 1st.OR,Mr. and Mrs. John B. Smithregret that owing to a previousengagement they are unable to acceptMr. and Mrs. James’skind invitation to dinner onMonday, December twenty-third,at eight o’clock.66 West B Street,Dec. 1st.

Where an invitation is meant to be informal, a social form of note with formal phraseology is often sent, thus:My dear Mrs. Smith:Will you and Mr. Smith dine with us informally on Thursday evening, December twenty-third, at eight o’clock?Sincerely yours,Mary James.99 West A Street,Dec. 1st.

This form of invitation is sometimes misleading to strangers, as the word “informal” is open to different interpretations.

These dinners are generally quite as formal as the others, and require the same toilet.

A woman’s dinner dress should be décolleté, and for a man evening dress is always de rigueur.Dress.

The butler wears a dress suit with white tie. The footman, or second man, wears the livery of the family, or, in default of that, a coat of dark color, with brass buttons, and a bright-colored striped waistcoat.

The dining-room maid wears a plain black dress, a white apron that covers completely the front of her skirt, a linen collar and deep cuffs, and a small white cap, with or without strings, but no crown. Everything in a well-ordered household is supposed to be clean, including the hands of the domestics, and the use of white gloves is not permissible. First-class butlers and footmen do not wear mustaches.Arrival. Guests are expected at the hour mentioned in the invitation, and should be as near that time as possible. In large cities, where distances are great and exact time difficult to calculate, a little grace is allowed, but the hostess is not expected to wait longer than fifteen minutes for a tardy guest. It is considered a breach of etiquette to be late, and the assumption is, when this occurs, that the delay is unavoidable and will be indefinite, and so the other guests should not be inconvenienced.

At large dinners a gentleman finds in the dressing-room, or a servant passes to him before he enters the drawing-room, a tray holding small addressed envelops. He selects the one bearing his own name, and finds on an inclosed card the name of the lady he is to take to the table. The letter R or L in the corner of the card denotes whether he will find his place on the right or left of the table from the entrance. If he does not know the lady, he should tell the hostess, so that he may be presented to her. The hostess stands near the door to receive her guests, and such introductions follow as can conveniently be made. If general introductions are omitted, guests are expected to act as though acquainted, and speak to whomever they may be near. This rule holds good for all entertainments in some countries, but Americans continue a reserve except at dinners, where barriers to ease and pleasure must not exist. The hostess does not knowingly bring together people who object to meet one another, but in such an event the acquaintanceship need not extend beyond the evening, and good breeding requires a courteous recognition of the friends of the hostess while under her roof.

The butler keeps count of the arrival of expected guests, and announces dinner shortly after all are in the drawing-room. In case of a tardy guest he waits for the hostess to order the dinner served. Announcement. He then enters the room, and, looking at the host or hostess, says, “Dinner is served,” or “Madam is served,” or simply bows to the hostess.

The host then offers his right arm to the lady who is to sit at his right, and leads the way into the dining-room; the other couples follow Precedence.in any order that is convenient. The hostess, with the gentleman she honors with the seat at her right, are the last to leave the drawing-room. If a distinguished man is present, it is to him this courtesy is shown. Except in official and diplomatic circles, there is no other rule of precedence. If the President of the United States or a royal personage were being entertained, the hostess with this dignitary would then precede the others.

At each cover is laid a card on which is distinctly written the name

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