New Vegetarian Dishes(txt+pdf+epub+mobi电子书下载)

作者：Bowdich, Mrs.

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PREFACE.

To have to live by some of them would almost make a vegetarian turn meat-eater. Most are compilations from other books with the meat dishes left out, and a little porridge and a few beans and peas thrown in. All of them, I believe, contain a lot of puddings and sweets, which certainly are vegetarian, but which can be found in any ordinary cookery book.

What is required is a book that will enable us to provide something to take the place of meat, which, while nourishing, shall at the same time be palatable. This the present book aims at doing. Of the 221 recipes given, upwards of 200 are absolutely original, having been carefully thought out and tested by the author herself, and not hitherto published anywhere. Many of them are as nourishing, weight for weight, as ordinary dishes made with meat, those containing beans, peas, eggs, and the various sorts of grain, being the most nourishing. If they are not all found to be palatable, the fault must be in the individual cook, who cannot have put in the important ingredient of feeling, without which no work can be wholly good.

The thorough-going vegetarian, to whom abstinence from meat is part of his ethical code and his religion,—who would as soon think of taking his neighbour's purse as helping himself to a slice of beef,—is by nature a man of frugal habits and simple tastes. He prefers a plain diet, and knows that the purest enjoyment is to be found in fruits of all kinds as nature supplies them. He needs but little cookery, and that of the simplest. To him this book will be of little use, except when he wishes to entertain his friends.

But there are others who, while not feeling that any moral principle is immediately involved in the matter of diet, yet would like to be relieved from the necessity of eating flesh, possibly on æsthetic grounds, or it may be from hygienic reasons, or in some cases, I hope, because they would willingly diminish the sufferings involved in the transport and slaughter of animals, inevitable as long as they are used for food. To these it is hoped that this little book may act as an encouragement and help.

Nor need our carnivorous friends be afraid of it. A good deal of nonsense is talked (by meat-eaters I mean, of course) about the properties of food, and they would have us believe that they eat a beef-steak mainly because it contains 21.5 per cent. of nitrogen. But we know better. They have eaten steaks for many years, but it was only last week, in working up for a debate, that they found out about the nitrogen. It is not the chemical ingredients which determine the diet, but the flavour; and it is quite remarkable, when some tasty vegetarian dishes are on the table, how soon the percentages of nitrogen are forgotten, and how far a small piece of meat will go. If this little book shall succeed in thus weaning away a few from a custom which is bad—bad for the suffering creatures that are butchered—bad for the class set apart to be the slaughterers—bad for the consumers physically, in that it produces disease, and morally, in that it tends to feed the lower and more ferocious qualities of mind, and also for ever prevents our treating the animal creation with that courtesy (as Sir Arthur Helps put it) which is their due—then I know that it will not have wholly failed in carrying out the author's benevolent intention.Ernest Bell.

GENERAL HINTS.

Haricot Beans.

Among the pulses there is none more nourishing, more generally liked, nor more useful to the vegetarian cook than the haricot bean. Whether on account of its refined flavour, its delicate colour, its size, or last, but not least, its cheapness, I do not hesitate to place it first. Like the potato, however, its very simplicity lays it open to careless treatment, and many who would be the first to appreciate its good qualities if it were placed before them well cooked and served, now recoil from the idea of habitually feeding off what they know only under the guise of a stodgy, insipid, or watery mass. A few hints, therefore, respecting the best manner of preparing this vegetable may be useful.

Firstly, the beans should invariably be washed and placed in a basin of cold water the night before they are required for use, and should remain in soak about ten or twelve hours. If left longer than this during hot weather they are apt to turn sour.

They should not be cooked in the same water that they have been soaked in.

Soft water must be used to cook them. If this be not obtainable, Maignen's Ante-Calcaire will be found to render the water soft.

Salt should not be added until they are at least half cooked, as its tendency is to harden them. This applies also to peas, lentils, etc.

They take about two hours to cook, or three if required very soft.

They must not be allowed to boil very fast, for, like potatoes, they are then liable to break before becoming tender.

About two pints of water, one ounce of butter, and one teaspoon of salt to half-pint of soaked beans, may be taken as a fair average.

During soaking they swell to nearly double their original size, and in boiling they double again.

Never throw away the liquor in which they are boiled but reserve it as “stock.”

When they are to be plainly served as a vegetable, it is best to remove the lid of the saucepan a few minutes before dishing up, and so reduce the liquor to the desired strength.

When required for frying they should be strained as soon as tender, and spread over a plate to dry. They may then be fried in butter or oil.

Always make a point of tasting them before sending to table, for if not sufficiently salted they are very insipid.

All spices, herbs, etc., boiled with the beans for flavouring purposes, should be tied in a small piece of muslin, which may at any moment be easily removed.

Haricot bean pulp, which will be found frequently mentioned in the following recipes, is made by boiling the beans until tender and rather dry, and then rubbing them through a wire sieve with a wooden spoon.

Lentils.

Next in usefulness to the haricot bean comes the German lentil. This must not be confounded with the Egyptian lentil, which closely resembles the split pea; for not only is the former double the price of the latter, but I may add double its worth also, at least from a culinary point of view.

In vegetarian cookery the lentil takes the place of the dark meats of the flesh-eaters' dietary, such as beef and mutton, the haricot bean supplying a substitute for the white, such as veal, chicken, etc.

The liquor in which lentils have been boiled forms a rich foundation for dark sauces, also a delicious and nourishing beverage, in flavour resembling beef-tea, can be obtained from them (see Recipe No. 12).

Besides being darker in colour, the flavour of lentils is much more pronounced than that of haricots.

Throughout the following recipes the word “lentil” means German lentil, without exception.

Split Peas, etc.

Most of the advice given above respecting haricots and lentils applies to the treatment of split peas, dried green peas, and Egyptian lentils.

Thickenings for Soups and Sauce.

Pearl barley is invaluable for thickening soups, sauces, etc.

It should be strained away when the required consistency is obtained, for if left in too long the flavour is apt to be found a little too strong for some tastes.

Sago, tapioca, rice, and semolina are all useful for thickening, and it is generally advisable to strain the sauces in which they are used, before sending to table.

If paste of flour and butter be used for thickening, there will be no necessity to use a strainer, unless the sauce becomes lumpy. This can generally be remedied, however, by prolonged stirring over the fire.

The paste is made by placing equal quantities of flour and butter on a plate, and working them together with a knife until the flour is thoroughly incorporated.

Use about one ounce each of flour and butter to one pint of sauce, or to two pints of soup.

For thickening dark sauces, stews, etc., flour which has been baked in the oven until it has turned a very light brown will be found better than white flour. If allowed to become too brown it will acquire a disagreeable flavour.

Frying in Oil.

A medium-sized iron saucepan and a wire basket to fit it easily should be kept for this purpose. Fill about a third of the saucepan with oil (be quite sure that the quality is good), put in the wire basket, and place the saucepan over the fire or gas, and after a few minutes watch it carefully to see when it begins to boil. This will be notified by the oil becoming quite still, and emitting a thin blue vapour. Directly this is observed, drop the articles to be fried gently into the basket, taking care not to overcrowd them, or their shape will be quite spoiled. When they have become a golden brown, lift out the basket, suspend it for one moment over the saucepan to allow the oil to run back, then carefully turn the fritters on to some soft paper, and serve piled on a hot dish, not forgetting to use a fish paper.

When cold, the oil should be strained through a fine strainer, lined with a piece of muslin. It is then ready for use again with a little more added.

Should the oil become burnt, it must of course be thrown away.

Bread Crumbs.

To procure fine bread crumbs, rub stale bread through a wire sieve. For this the hands should be scrupulously clean.

Should the crumbs be required coarse, rubbing the bread on a grater will answer the purpose.

RECIPES.

SOUPS.

in muslin.

Peel the artichokes and throw them into cold water. Dissolve the butter in a large enamelled saucepan, slice the artichokes and fry for five minutes in the butter, then add the water, shalots and celery chopped, and the seasonings. Boil for three-quarters of an hour, removing the scum as it rises. Add milk and sago, and stir frequently for twenty minutes. Rub through a hair sieve into a tureen.

Note.—Cream is often recommended for this soup, but when sago and milk are used as above, the result will be found extremely satisfactory, and the expense considerably lessened.No. 2.—Asparagus Soup.● 60 heads of asparagus.● 1 cabbage lettuce.● 2 quarts of water.● 1 ounce of butter.● 6 medium-sized onions.● A sprig of mint.● 1 tablespoon of sago.● 2 teaspoons of salt.● ½ teaspoon of pepper.● 2 or 3 drops of spinach extract.

Dissolve the butter in a large saucepan, place in the lettuce finely shredded, the salt, pepper, mint, onions sliced, water, and the green portion of the asparagus, but reserving thirty tops. Boil one hour. Stir in the sago and boil again, stirring frequently for half an hour without the lid. Boil the thirty tops separately in a little salted water until tender. Strain the soup through a hair sieve (rubbing the pulp through with a wooden spoon) into a hot tureen, add the tops and the colouring, and serve.

Note.—If the soup be made some time before required, do not cook the tops until it is being re-heated.No. 3.—Brown Soup.● 6 cold boiled potatoes.● 2 onions stuck with cloves.● 1 tomato.● 2½ pints stock.● 2 ounces butter.● 1 strip of lemon peel.● 3 whole allspice.● 1 dozen peppercorns.● 1 teaspoon Worcester sauce.● Pepper and salt to taste.● 1 dozen forcemeat balls, No. 78

Slice the potatoes and fry them very carefully in the butter, so as to thoroughly brown without burning them. Place them in a saucepan with the stock and simmer five minutes; by this time the brown colour will have boiled off the potatoes into the soup. Strain away the potatoes, return the soup to the saucepan, add onions (each stuck with three cloves), lemon peel, sauce, spices, pepper and salt, and the tomato sliced and fried. Simmer one hour, strain into a hot tureen, place in the forcemeat balls, which have been previously fried, and serve quickly.No. 4.—Carrot Soup.● 1 pint haricot beans.● 5 pints water.● 2 ounces butter.● 1 ounce salt.● 6 large carrots.● 2 large onions.● 1 small head of celery.● 1 teaspoon peppercorns.

Dissolve the butter in a large saucepan. Slice the vegetables, and place them in the saucepan together with the water and peppercorns, and simmer for one hour. Add salt, and simmer for another hour and a half. Strain.No. 5.—Celery Soup.● 3 large heads of celery.● 1 large onion.● 1 potato.● 3 pints water.● 1 dozen peppercorns.● 2 ounces butter.● ¾ ounce flour.● 1½ teaspoons salt.● ½ pint milk.● 1 pinch of mace.

Dissolve one ounce of butter in a good-sized saucepan, then add the vegetables sliced, and all the other ingredients, except flour, milk, and the other ounce of butter. Simmer for one and a half hours. Strain, thicken with flour and butter. Add milk, and serve very hot.No. 6.—Chestnut Soup.● 1 pound chestnuts.● 1½ pints water.● Yolk of one egg, or 1 teaspoon cream.● 1 onion.● 1 small turnip.● 1 ounce butter.● ½ teaspoon salt.● 6 peppercorns, and a very small pinch of mixed herbs.

Boil the chestnuts for half an hour. In the meantime dissolve the butter in a stewpan; then fry in it the onion and turnip sliced, add the water flavourings, and chestnuts after removing the shells and skins. Boil one hour. Place the cream or yolk in a basin, strain the soup on to it and stir, then strain it back into the saucepan; re-warm, but do not allow to boil. Pour into the tureen and serve.No. 7.—French Bean Soup.● 3 pints water.● 1 pint soaked haricot beans.● 2 potatoes.● 1 ounce butter.● 1 onion.● 1 pound French beans.● 1 teaspoon salt.● 1 dozen peppercorns.

Dissolve the butter in a saucepan and fry in it the potatoes and onion sliced for five minutes, then add the haricot beans and water and boil for two hours. Add the salt, rub through a wire sieve, replace in the pan, add the French beans cut fine, and simmer until tender. Tinned beans do equally well, and only require to be made thoroughly hot.No. 8.—Green Kale Soup.● 2 pounds green kale.● 1 onion.● 1 Spanish ditto.● 2 potatoes.● 1 ounce butter.● 2 teaspoons sago.● 1 quart water.● 1 teaspoon salt.● 1 dozen peppercorns, and a suspicion each of mace and sweet

herbs.

Dissolve the butter in a saucepan, and place in it the onions and potatoes sliced; then add water, salt and flavourings, and boil for one hour. In the meantime prepare the kale by picking off all but the tender middle shoots, trim the stalks and throw the kale into salt and water; rinse well and see that it is all quite free from insects, and boil separately in salted water for ten minutes. When the soup has boiled an hour, thicken with the sago and continue stirring ten minutes, strain, return to the saucepan. Strain also the kale, place it on a chopping board and cut small; add it to the soup, boil up and serve.

Note.—Any kind of greens may be treated in the above manner.No. 9.—Haricot Bean Soup.● 1 pint soaked haricot beans.● 1 good-sized carrot.● 1 good-sized turnip.● 2 onions.● 1 small head of celery.● 2 ounces butter.● 1 teaspoon salt.● 2 quarts water.

Dissolve the butter in a saucepan, place in the onions sliced and fry five minutes; then add the other vegetables sliced, the beans, and water. Boil one and a half hours, add salt, and simmer half an hour longer. Strain before serving.No. 10.—Lentil Soup.● 1 pint lentils.● 2 quarts water.● 1½ ounces butter.● 1 carrot.● 1 onion.● 1 turnip.● 1 potato.● 1 teaspoon salt.● 1 tablespoon minced parsley.

Slice the vegetables and fry in the butter for five minutes, place them in a saucepan with the lentils and water and boil one and a half hours; add salt and a little pepper if liked. Strain, replace in the saucepan, add the parsley, boil for three minutes, and serve.

Note.—The solid part which is strained away should on no account be wasted, but will be found excellent for making lentil puddings, pies, stews, etc.No. 11.—Lentil Broth.● ½ pint soaked lentils.● 1 tablespoon pearl barley.● 1 quart water.● 1 ounce butter.● 1 shalot sliced.● 1 flat teaspoon salt.● { 3 peppercorns.● { 3 allspice, and a small strip of lemon peel, tied in muslin.

Place altogether in a saucepan with the exception of the salt, which should be added later, and boil gently for two hours, removing the scum as it rises. Strain and serve with sippets of freshly-made toast.

Note.—The above will be found a very excellent substitute for mutton broth, being very nourishing, and tasty; when liked a turnip maybe added, and will give additional flavour. The lentils and barley, which have been strained, may be used in many ways.No. 12.—Lentil Tea.(A substitute for Beef Tea.)● 1 pint soaked lentils.● 1 pint water.● 2 ounces butter.● ½ teaspoon salt.● 2 cloves.● 6 peppercorns.● A very small piece of mace.● A little pepper if liked.

Dissolve the butter in a saucepan, place in all the ingredients except salt and pepper. Boil half an hour, removing the scum as it rises. Add salt, boil another half hour. Strain carefully and serve with toast or bread.

Note.—The lentils should be re-boiled, and will make a very useful stock.No. 13.—Mulligatawny Soup.● 1½ pints soaked haricot beans.● 3 quarts water.● 2 large carrots.● 2 large turnips.● 1 large onion.● 1 leek.● 2 ounces butter.● 2 teaspoons salt.● 2 dozen peppercorns.● ½ ounce curry powder.● ½ ounce flour.

Place the beans, water, onion and leek in a large saucepan and place on the fire. Slice the carrots and turnips and fry in one ounce of butter until slightly brown. Add them to the beans and boil altogether for one hour, then add salt and peppercorns. Boil for another hour, strain, return to the saucepan and thicken with the flour, curry powder, and one ounce of butter made into a paste. Stir until it has boiled for three minutes. Strain again if necessary before serving. Serve boiled rice in another dish.No. 14.—Oatmeal Soup.● 3 carrots.● 3 turnips.● 3 onions.● 3 tablespoons coarse oatmeal.● 1 stick of celery.● 5 pints water.● 2½ ounces butter.● 2 teaspoons salt.● 1 dozen peppercorns.● 1 tablespoon chopped parsley.

Dissolve the butter in a large saucepan, slice the vegetables and fry them for a few minutes in the butter, but do not allow them to brown. Add water, peppercorns and salt, and boil two hours; then add oatmeal (which should have been previously soaked for a few hours), and boil three-quarters of an hour longer. Strain, return to the saucepan, add the parsley, simmer three minutes, and Serve.No. 15.—Onion Soup.● 6 onions.● 2 Spanish ditto.● 4 potatoes.● 1 quart water.● 2 teaspoons salt.● 2 teaspoons sago.● 1½ ounces butter.● 1 dozen peppercorns, and a suspicion of mace and mixed herbs

in muslin.

Dissolve the butter in a saucepan, then place in the onions sliced, and stand the pan over a gentle heat, shaking frequently. In the meantime peel and slice the potatoes and add them to the onions, together with the water, salt and flavourings. Boil for one and a half hours, lift out the muslin bag, stir in the sago, and continue stirring for ten minutes, then strain.No. 16.—Parsnip Soup.● 3 good-sized parsnips.● 2 potatoes.● 1 large onion.● 1½ ounces butter.● 1 quart water.● 1 teaspoon salt.● 1 dozen peppercorns.● 2 teaspoons sago.

Dissolve the butter in the saucepan, then place in the vegetables sliced, with the water, salt and peppercorns, and boil for one and a half hours; add sago, stir until it thickens, then rub through a sieve into a tureen and serve hot.No. 17.—Pea Soup.● 1 pint soaked peas.● 1 ounce butter.● 2½ pints water.● 1 stick of celery.● 1½ teaspoons salt.● 1 large carrot.● 1 large turnip.● 1 large onion.● 1 dozen peppercorns.● ½ teaspoon mixed herbs.

Dissolve the butter in a saucepan, place in it the peas and one pint of water, and boil gently for half-an-hour. In the meantime prepare and slice the vegetables and add them to the peas, together with the seasonings, boil for one and a half hours, and pass through a sieve, rubbing the vegetables through with a wooden spoon.No. 18.—Dried Green Pea Soup.● 1½ pints soaked green peas.● 1 large onion.● 1 large carrot.● 1 large turnip.● 2 quarts water.● 1 ounce butter.● 1 teaspoon salt.● 1 dozen peppercorns.

Dissolve the butter in a large saucepan, place in the peas (which must have been carefully picked over), the vegetables sliced, and the peppercorns. Boil gently three hours, add salt, and rub through a wire

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