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Dressed Game and Poultry à la Mode试读：
PREFACE.
At this the sporting season of the year, I venture to offer to the public another of my little series in the form of Dressed Game and Poultry. No doubt many of the recipes are well known, but it has been my aim to collect from all the culinary preserves such recipes that from personal experience I know to be good. All the known and unknown tomes on the gourmet's art have been consulted, and I have to thank the authors for this assistance to my work, as well as those cordons bleus from whom I have practically learnt some few of them.
I shall be very pleased to correspond with any of my readers who may wish to discourse on matters relative to the dinner table and its adjuncts, floral decorations among the number.H. A. DE SALIS.Hampton Lea, Sutton,Surrey, 1888.
DRESSED GAME AND POULTRY
À LA MODE.Blackbird Pie.Stuff the birds with the crumb of a French roll soaked in a little milk, which put in a stewpan with 1-1/2 ounces of butter, a chopped shalot, some parsley, pepper, salt, a grate of nutmeg, and the yolks of two small eggs. Stir over the fire till it becomes a thick paste, and fill the insides of the birds with it. Line the bottom of the pie-dish with fried collops of rump steak, and place the birds on them neatly. Add four hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and pour gravy all over, cover with puff paste, and bake for one hour and a quarter.Blanquette of Chicken.
Cut the meat from a cold boiled fowl, in small pieces. Stew down the bones in one pint of water, a bouquet garni, add a little salt and white pepper to taste. Then strain the stock, add to it three or four peeled mushrooms finely minced, and let them cook in this sauce; when done put in the pieces of fowl to warm through, thicken with the yolks of two eggs. Add lemon juice and serve hot.Blanquette of Chicken aux Concombres.
Boil a chicken and cut it into neat joints. Cut a cucumber in pieces and fry in butter, put them in a little stock, which reduce; have reduced half a pint of velouté sauce with a few trimmings of cucumber in it. Pour this through a tammy over the fowls, set it on the fire, and as soon as it bubbles add a liaison of three yolks of eggs, work in a little butter and lemon juice, drain the pieces of cucumber in a cloth, throw them in, and serve them in an open vol au vent, garnished with flowers of puff paste.Capilotade of Fowl or Turkey.
Take the remains of a cold fowl or turkey, and cut it into neat joints. Chop up three or four mushrooms, some parsley, a shalot, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and let all fry together for a short time; then moisten with a little good-flavoured stock, and thicken with flour. Add salt to taste, let the sauce boil well, put in the pieces of bird for a few minutes; take them out, arrange them on a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve.Chicken à la Bonne Femme.
Cut up a chicken into joints, warm up three onions and three turnips in butter; when brown add the pieces of fowl. Season with salt and pepper, sauté over the fire for ten minutes. Then stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour, and five minutes after add a tumblerful of stock, a wineglass of white wine, a bouquet of mixed herbs, and half a pound of peeled tomatoes, with all the pips carefully removed. Cook over a slow fire for twenty-five minutes, add about half a pound of mushrooms peeled and cut up to the size of a shilling, leave it on the fire for ten minutes; take out the bouquet of herbs, season with an ounce of finely-chopped parsley, dish up the pieces of chicken in a pyramid, and pour the sauce and vegetables over.Braised Drumsticks of Chicken.
Braise the drumsticks, and arrange them uprightly in tent fashion, and all around and between the drumsticks should be finely chopped salad. Alternate slices of tongue and ham should be placed at the edge of the salad, and the border of the dish ornamented with thin rounds of beetroot.Chickens Chiringrate.
Cut off the feet of a chicken, break the breastbone flat, but be careful not to break the skin. Flour it and fry it in butter, drain all the fat out of the pan, but leave the chicken in. Make a farce from half a pound of fillet of beef, half a pound of veal, ten ounces of cooked ham, a shalot, a bouquet garni, and a piece of carrot, pepper, and salt; cook in stock, and then pass it through a sieve, and lay this farce over the chicken. After stewing the chicken for a quarter of an hour, make a rich gravy from the stock, and add a few mushrooms and two spoonfuls of port wine; boil all up well, and pour over and around the chicken.Chicken à la Continental.
Beat up two eggs with butter, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; then cut up the fowls, dip them in the egg paste, and roll them in crumbs and fried parsley. Fry in clarified dripping, and pour over the dish any white or green vegetable ragoût, made hot; grate Parmesan over all.Chicken à la Davenport.
Stuff a fowl with a forcemeat made of the hearts and livers, an anchovy, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, one onion, a little spice, and a little shred veal-kidney fat. Sew up the neck and vent, brown the fowl in the oven, then stew it in stock till tender. Serve with white mushroom sauce.Chicken à l'Italienne.
Pass a knife under the skin of the back, and cut out the backbone without injuring the skin or breaking off the rump, draw out the breastbone and break the merrythought; flatten the fowl and put two skewers through it. Put it into a marinade of oil, sliced onion, eschalot, parsley, thyme, and a bay leaf, spice, pepper, and salt, in which let them soak a few hours. Broil them before the fire; when done, dish the fowls, garnish them with hot pickle, serve them with a brown Italian sauce over, with a few onions in it.Chicken à la Matador.
Cut a chicken into fillets and neat joints. Mince finely a Spanish onion and stew it with two ounces of butter, a few drops of lemon, pepper, and salt; when it has been stewed for half an hour, pass it through a tammy, and mix in with it a good tablespoonful of aspic jelly. Mask the chicken with this, and warm up the chicken in the bain-marie.Fillets of Chicken à la Cardinal.
Cook some fillets of chicken in butter, and when done place them in a circle round an entrée dish, with a mushroom between each fillet. Fill the centre with Allemagne sauce, to which has been added some lobster and crayfish butter to make it red. Garnish with crayfish tails if handy.Fried Chicken à la Orly.
Cut up a chicken into joints. Season with salt, pepper, parsley, a bayleaf, and lemon juice, sprinkle with flour and fry in butter; dip some sliced onions into flour and fry. When done, dish up the chicken in a pyramid, garnish with the fried onions and cover with tomato sauce.Fried Chicken à la Suisse.
Roast a chicken and cut it into fillets and neat joints. Sprinkle some finely minced herbs, mignonette pepper, and salt over them. Let them remain for an hour, then dip them in frying batter and fry. Serve with fried parsley and tomato purée.Fricassee of Chicken.American Recipe.
Clean, wash, and cut up the fowls. Lay them in salt and water for half an hour. Put them in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover them and half a pound of salt pork cut into thin strips. Cover closely and let them heat very slowly. Then stew for over an hour, if the fowls are tender; if not they may take from three to four hours. They must be cooked very slowly. When tender, add a chopped onion, a shalot, parsley, and pepper. Cover closely again, and when it has heated to boiling, stir in a teacupful of milk, to which have been added two beaten eggs and two tablespoonfuls of flour. Boil up and add an ounce of butter. Arrange the chickens neatly in an entrée dish, pour the gravy over and serve.Fritôt of Chicken aux Tomates.
Take the remains of a boiled fowl and cut into pieces the size of a small cutlet. Shake a little flour over them and put them aside. Prepare a batter made of half a pound of Vienna flour, the yolk of one egg, half a gill of salad oil, and a gill of light coloured ale. Mix all these together lightly till it will mask the tip of your finger, add half a pint of purée of tomato, and mix well together. Dip the chicken cutlets into this batter, masking them well, and then put them in good lard and fry, and place them on a wire sieve as they are cooked, keeping them near the fire to keep them hot and crisp. Dish piled in a pyramid with tomatoes whole and tomato sauce round.Chicken Nouilles au Parmesan.
Take a large fowl, and when trussed put a lump of butter inside it, and cover the breast with fat bacon. Put it into a stewpan with an onion, a carrot, a piece of celery; cover with water and boil slowly for fifty minutes. Garnish the dish on which it is served with a pint of Nouilles boiled in a stewpan of boiling water for twenty minutes, drained, and then put into another saucepan with two ounces of butter. Sprinkle in two ounces of Parmesan cheese and warm up for five minutes, then garnish the fowl with them, and pour over it a pint of rich Béchamel sauce, in which two ounces of Parmesan cheese has been mixed. The Nouilles are made by mixing half a pound of butter with three eggs till it becomes a thick smooth paste, roll it out very thin, cut it into strips an inch wide, and place four or five of these on the top of each other, shred them in thin slices like Julienne vegetables, and drain them.Chicken Pudding à la Reine.
Take the meat from a cold fowl and pound it in a mortar, after removing the skin and sinews. Boil in light stock a couple of good tablespoonfuls of rice. When it is done and has soaked up the rice, add the pounded chicken to it, with a gill of cream, pepper, and salt. If not moist enough, add a little more cream. Butter a plain mould, fill it with the rice and chicken, tie a pudding cloth closely over, and put the mould into a stewpan of hot water to boil for an hour. The water should only reach about three-quarters up the mould. When done, turn it out and serve a good white mushroom sauce round it.Chicken and Rice.Pollo con Arroz (Spanish Recipe).
Cut a fowl into joints, wipe quite dry, and trim neatly. Put a wineglass of the best olive oil in a stewpan, let it get hot. Put in the chicken, stir and turn the joints and sprinkle with salt. When the chicken is a golden brown add some chopped onions, one or two red chillies, and fry all together. Meanwhile have ready four tomatoes cut in quarters, and two teacupfuls of rice well washed. Mix these with the chicken and pour in a very small quantity of broth and stew till the rice is cooked and the broth dried up. Sprinkle a little chopped parsley and serve in a deep dish without a cover, as the steam must not be kept in.Chicken in Savoury Jelly.
Take a large chicken and roast it. Boil a calf's foot to a strong jelly, take out the foot and skim off the fat; beat up the whites of two eggs and mix them with a quarter of a pint of white wine vinegar, the juice of one lemon, a little salt, a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, and a claret-glassful of sherry. Put these to the jelly, and when it has boiled five or six minutes strain it through a jelly bag till clear. Then put a little into an oblong baking tin (big enough for a half-quartern loaf), and when it is nearly set put in the chicken with its breast downwards; the chicken having been masked all over with white sauce, in which aspic has been well mixed, and ornamented with a device of truffles cut in stars and kite shapes. When the chicken is in, fill up the mould gradually with the remainder of the jelly. Let it stand for some hours, or place it on ice before turning it out.Chicken with Spinach.
Poach nicely in the gravy five or six eggs. Dress them on flattened balls of spinach round the dish and serve the fowl in the centre, rubbing down the liver to thicken the gravy and liquor in which the fowl has been stewed, which pour over it for sauce, skimming it well. Mushrooms, oysters, and forcemeat balls should be put into the sauce.Chicken Stewed Whole.
Fill the inside of a chicken with large oysters and mushrooms and fasten a tape round to keep them in. Put it in a tin pan with a cover, and put this into a large boiling pot with boiling water, which must not quite reach up to the top of the pan the chicken is in. Keep it boiling till the chicken is done, which would be in about an hour's time after it begins to simmer. Remove the scum occasionally, and replenish with water as it boils away; take all the gravy from it and put it into a small saucepan, keeping the chicken warm. Thicken the gravy with butter, flour, and add two tablespoonfuls of chopped oysters, the yolks of two eggs boiled hard and minced fine, some seasoning, and a gill of cream. Boil five minutes and dish the fowls.Côtelettes à l'Ecarlate.
Make a stiff forcemeat from the breast of a fowl or pheasant, or the two breasts of partridge or grouse. Cut some slices of tongue into cutlet shapes. Take some more tongue, pound and pass it through a sieve and mix it with the forcemeat. Season with a little cayenne and mushroom flavour. Butter and fill up some cutlet moulds with the forcemeat, and steam them in the oven. Then turn out the cutlets and place them on a baking sheet. Glaze them and replace them in the oven for a few seconds. Dish up alternately a cutlet of tongue with a cutlet of forcemeat; sauce the whole with chaud-froid sauce, and garnish with chopped aspic and very small red tomatoes.Forced Capon.
Cut the skin of a capon down the breast, carefully slip the knife down so as to take out all the meat, and mix it with a pound of beef suet cut small. Beat this together in a marble mortar, and take a pint of large oysters cut small, two anchovies, a shalot, a bouquet garni, a little mignonette pepper, and the yolks of four eggs. Mix all these well together, and lay it on the bones; then draw the skin over it, and sew up. Put the capon into a cloth, and boil it an hour and a quarter. Stew a dozen oysters in good gravy thickened with a piece of butter rolled in flour; take the capon out of the cloth, lay it in its dish, and pour the sauce over it.Capon à la Nanterre.
Make a stuffing with the liver of the capon, a dozen roasted chestnuts, a piece of butter, parsley, green onions, very little garlic, two yolks of eggs, salt and pepper. Stuff the capon, and then roast it, covering it with buttered paper. When it is cooked, brush it over with the yolk of an egg diluted in a little lukewarm batter; sprinkle breadcrumbs over all, and let it brown, and serve with a sharp sauce.Braised Ducks à la St. Michel.
Rub some flour and oil over a couple of ducks, and brown them in the oven for a short time. Mix together a cup of Chablis wine and a cup of broth, season with pepper and salt; braise the ducks till they are tender. Chop some mushrooms, chives, and parsley; mix these in the broth in which the ducks were braised. Put the ducks to keep warm before the fire whilst the sauce 'reduces.' Dredge in a very little flour, and send up the ducks with the sauce round them.Duck à la Mode.
Divide two ducks into quarters, and put them in a stewpan, and sprinkle over them flour, pepper, and salt. Put into the stewpan several pieces of butter, and fry the ducks till a nice brown colour. Remove the frying fat, and pour in half a pint of gravy and half a pint of port wine, sprinkle in more flour, add a bouquet garni, three minced shalots, an anchovy, and a dust of cayenne. Let them stew for twenty minutes, then place them on a dish, remove the herbs, clear off the fat, and serve with the sauce over them.Braised Duck à la Nivernaise.
Line a braisingpan with slices of bacon, add the duck, cover it with bacon, and season with a bouquet of parsley, carrots, thyme, and bay leaves; moisten with stock and the same quantity of claret; fix the lid very tightly on the pan, and simmer over a slow fire, with hot coals on the lid of the stewpan. Cut up some turnips into balls, cook them in butter till brown, drain and simmer in brown thickening, moistened with a little stock. When the duck is cooked, dish up, and garnish with the turnips.Devilled Duck or Teal.Indian Recipe.
Take a pound of onions, a piece of green ginger, and six chillies. Reduce them to a pulp, then add two teaspoonfuls of mustard, pepper, salt, cayenne, and chutney, two tablespoonfuls of ketchup, and half a bottle of claret. Cut up the duck or teal, and put it into the sauce, and let it simmer for a long time—the duck having been previously roasted.Duck à la Provence.
Rub the duck over with lemon-juice, fry it in butter for a few minutes; sprinkle it with flour; then add sufficient stock to cover it, one tablespoonful of ketchup, one carrot; cut up two onions, two cloves, a bouquet garni, pepper, and salt. Let this stew for an hour; then take out the duck, strain the gravy, and remove all fat, and add plenty of mushrooms. Put in some stoned and scalded olives, which boil up for ten minutes and dish up with the duck. The olives should have been soaked three hours previously.Duck.Canard à Purée Perto.
Take a pint of freshly shelled peas, boil them in a little thin stock, and rub them through a sieve; stew a duck in stock with a little salt, a dozen peppercorns, half a clove of garlic, six small onions, a bayleaf, and bouquet garni. When done, pass the same through a sieve, and add to it the purée of peas; reduce the whole to the consistency of thick cream. Serve the duck with the purée over it.Salmi of Duck.
Take the giblets of a duck and the flesh off the carcase, and the bones, and stew them in equal quantities of claret and stock, salt, pepper, and three shalots. Reduce and simmer till it is thick, then pass through a sieve, and take it off the fire before it boils. Cut up the duck into neat pieces and lay it in the stewpan with the gravy. Squeeze juice of strained orange over it, and serve en pyramide.Stewed Duck and Turnips.
Brown the duck in a stewpan with some butter, peel and cut some young turnips into equal sizes, and brown in the same butter; stir in a little powdered sugar, reduce some stock to a thin brown sauce, season with salt, pepper, a bouquet of parsley, chives, half a head of garlic, and a bayleaf. Stew the duck in this sauce, and when half cooked add the turnips, turn the duck from time to time, being careful not to break the turnips, cook slowly, and skim off all grease and serve.Roast Goose Stuffed with Chestnuts.
Prepare a goose and stuff it with a mixture of minced bacon, the liver, salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and chestnuts, which have been previously cooked and peeled. Baste the goose well whilst roasting. When cooked, serve with its own gravy, and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon.Goose à la Royale.
Having boned the goose, stuff it with the following forcemeat:—Twelve sage leaves, two onions, and two apples, all shred very fine. Mix with four ounces grated bread, four ounces of beef suet, two glasses of port wine, a grate of nutmeg, pepper, and salt to taste, the grated peel of a lemon, and the beaten yolks of four eggs; sew up the goose and fry in butter till a light brown, and put it into two quarts of good stock and let it stew for two hours, and till the liquor is nearly consumed; then take up the goose, strain the liquor and take off the fat, add a spoonful of lemon pickle, the same of browning and port wine, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, a little cayenne and salt, boil it up and pour over the goose.Game and Macaroni.
Put some ounces of macaroni into boiling stock, then add any game cut into small joints three parts cooked. Add some lean raw ham, chopped mushrooms, pepper, and salt.Game Pie.
Take ten ounces of veal and the same of veal fat, and chop it very fine, season with pepper, salt, and cayenne. Arrange this as a lining round a china raised pie mould. Fill in with fillets of grouse, pheasant, partridge, and hare, strips of tongue, ham, hard-boiled yolks of eggs, button mushrooms, pistachio nuts, truffles, and pâté de foie gras; cover in with more of the mince, then put a paste on the top for cooking it in. Bake from two and a half to three hours. Remove the paste and fill the mould up with clarified meat jelly, partly cold; let this set. Ornament the top with chopped aspic and alternate slices of lemon and cucumber round. Croûtons of red and yellow aspic should be arranged at the base of the mould.Game Rissoles au Poulet à la Carême.
Roll out very thin three-quarters of a pound of Brioche paste. Place upon it, two inches from the edge, minced fowl or game, prepared as for croquets, and rolled up between two teaspoons in balls the size of a nutmeg. Place these an inch from each other; egg the paste all round and fold the edge of it over the balls of mince. Press it firmly down, and with a paste stamp two inches wide cut the rissoles, keeping the mince balls exactly in the centre of each. Lay them on a hot tin that the paste may rise and fry them in lard not too hot, turning them with a skewer. They will become quite round. When of a good golden colour drain them and serve directly, and dish up in a pyramid.Salad of Game à la Francatelli.
Boil eight eggs hard; shell them, and cut a thin slice off the bottom
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