时尚有价(txt+pdf+epub+mobi电子书下载)

作者：杨大伟

出版社：清华大学出版社

格式: AZW3, DOCX, EPUB, MOBI, PDF, TXT

时尚有价试读：

作者简介

杨大伟（David Yeung），香港人，从事设计教育十多年，自由时装设计顾问，主修服装设计及设计管理。曾于中国香港、英国、土耳其及美国在线教授服装课程，桃李满门，现任北京服装学院国际部艺术与设计课程主管。曾出版《时装有品》一书。

The Author's profile

David Yeung is a Hongkongist．He has worked in design education for more than 10 years and he is also a freelance design consultant，who has specialized in fashion design and design management．He has worked in Hong Kong，UK，Turkey and US online teaching fashion，and has fostered a lot of successful fashion designers in industry．Recently he has worked as a course leader in art and design at Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology，China．He authored a reference book Fashion is Cool.时尚有价——杨大伟Fashion is Luxe—David YEUNG

现在国内同胞消费能力很高，据闻现在全球供应的奢侈品中，大约有三分之一由中国人买走，这真的很惊人！回顾过去10年，很多内地同胞纷纷来香港购买名牌，而近几年甚至部分人会直接飞去欧洲国家买他们的心头好，可见他们对名牌的热爱。

有见及此，我写此书及以插画的形式表现品牌的目的，是以轻松的手法让读者了解一些品牌的背景，以及让他们更明白到品牌的营造是需时的。大家现在见到外国高端品牌那么成功，影响那么深远，要知道很多都是经历数十甚至数百年才有今日的地位，而欧洲人对历史文物和艺术又是那么专重，所以品牌的孕育需时间沉淀才能成为传奇。此外，除了介绍一些国内热门的国际品牌外，我也引入一些有实力有质量的品牌给大家认识。读者更会发现这里所列举的并非单指服饰，还有个人嗜好如车、食品、酒、家具等，因“时尚”的意思并非单指服装，还包括个人品位。上次的《时装有品》给读者认识时装概念，今次的《时尚有价》就让大家认识品牌的背后故事！希望大家喜欢。

最后谢谢家人对我的支持，及插画团队成员Alice、Filiz、Jack、Mario、mr．cardigan、Rachel、Roxanne、Sam及Stella的帮助才能成事！当然两位重量级人物Ms．Gladys Perint Palmer及吕越教授给我写序，让此书生色不少！Thank you so much！

It is obvious to see that our Chinese compatriots have got strong purchasing power nowadays．It is also reported that for the supply of luxury products on market，1/3 was bought by Chinese people．Such figure is totally astonishing！When we look back over the past 10 years，a lot of mainland compatriots have come to Hong Kong to buy luxury products，and even for the past 5 years some flied to European countries to purchase their likes straight away.

For this reason，the aim of writing this book with illustrations is to give readers a general understanding of some luxury brands' background，and also let them know that it takes time to run a brand with success．We can see a lot of foreign high end brands are successful because of their long history they have established，and also their attitude towards heritage preservation and art appreciation are well measured．To foster a legend takes a lot of effort．Apart from telling readers some popular international brands favored in China，I will also introduce a few high quality brands so that readers can take notice of them though they are not that high profile in China at present．Readers may realize that this book is not all about clothes and accessories but also vehicles，food and wine，home products，etc are included．Readers should understand the meaning of fashion is not only confined to clothes but also extend to one's lifestyle．My last book“Fashion is Cool”talked about the concept of fashion and this book“Fashion is Luxe”is to tell you successful brands' stories．I hope you like it.

Last，I thank my family for supporting me to author this book．And without helping hands from the illustration team，namely：Alice，Filiz ，Jack，Mario，mr．cardigan，Rachel，Roxanne，Sam and Stella，this book cannot be done．And certainly，two“heavy-Weight”VIPs Ms．Gladys Perint Palmer and Professor Aluna Lu helped write prefaces for me made the book more than perfect！Thank you so much!序——Gladys Perint PalmerPreface

I have known David Yeung since 2012 when he approached me to teach online for the Academy of Art University's School of Fashion.

He stated that globalization takes place not only in business sector but also in education．Having lived in Hong Kong for more than a decade and I agreed with David's opinion that the people of Hong Kong look for challenges and new experiences outside their comfort zone.

Now he is preparing to publish a second fashion source book in China，sharing his expertise in premium fashion brands with mainland Chinese people．This illustrated book covers a multitude of brands，and“behind-the-scene”stories.

I am pleased to see there are many up-and-coming young Hong Kong illustrators．I wish David success in the near future.Gladys Perint PalmerExecutive Vice President，Artistic DevelopmentAcademy of Art UniversitySan Francisco序——吕越Preface

认识David时间不长，却印象深刻。在韩国时装艺术家双年展上遇见同去参展的他，尽管他以中国香港身份参展，其实他常住北京，并在北京服装学院任教。

他告知我他正在撰写一本名为《时尚有价》的书。之前他有一本《时装有品》，已经由清华大学出版社出版。David作为一位在时装设计上有多年经验的导师，他把时装设计的那些有点庞杂、有点深奥、有点枯燥、有点艳丽、有点神秘的那些事，用十分通俗的方式一一呈现给读者，图文并茂，中英对照，很适合初学者和爱好者阅读。

祝愿他的《时尚有价》顺利出版，为时装设计大厦添砖加瓦，为时装设计书籍百花园添叶加花，也祝愿时装设计之园百花盛开。艺术家、设计师、教授，中央美术学院设计学院教授，导师中国服装设计师协会学术委员会主任委员北京服装设计师协会主席中国流行色协会理事中国十佳服装设计师2015年10月6日不穿衣服的家伙：阿伯克龙比和惠誉Abercrombie and Fitch — the naked guys

要解释“咸鱼翻身”，阿伯克龙比和惠誉（Abercrombie and Fitch，A&F）绝对是一个好例子。A&F 1892年由戴维·阿伯克龙比（David T．Abercrombie）和埃兹拉·惠誉（Ezra Fitch）在美国曼哈顿创立，专营高级运动和旅游服装，但公司在20世纪70年代出现财务困难，“苟延残喘”到1988年被The Limited公司并购，才得以重生；随后品牌重新定位为“奢侈休闲服”（casual luxury），以大学生为主要销售对象。当时为了建立新形象重振雄风，找来一班筋肉少男少女拍产品目录，那些模特不单穿着衣服好看，连不穿衣服也一样好看，所以要拿产品目录，得18岁以上才行。我一位女性朋友多年前到美国出差，亦到A&F潮店拜会一番，结账时顺便拿本目录，怎知售货员要她出示身份证证明已成年，真是哭笑不得——西方人以为东方人真有长生不老药，个个都是青年才俊？不单这样，A&F还遭到一群正义家长“抵制”，据说是因为衣服设计过分性感，有鼓吹性早熟之嫌。谁知2012年A&F香港中环旗舰店开幕，还是请来一班筋肉型男，赤膊露胸，迷倒一众靓女靓太，只因爱美都是人的天性！今时今日，不用成年才可穿A&F，A&F kids在1998年开始销售，对象为7至14岁的儿童。

虽然品牌宣传高级形象，但A&F做事手法也有“下流”的时候，并在多次不平等和种族歧视案件中被判罚款，更使其“声名大噪”。于是，被人吿得多总要反击一下，就是人红有人跟——American Eagle Outfitters“借用”A&F灵感赚得盆满钵满，可惜法庭说还没有使消费者产生混淆……

此外，在2015年4月，他们说不会在商店里使用裸体模特推广，你认为他们能够保持多长时间？

We can use“revival”to describe the brand Abercrombie and Fitch．In 1892 it was founded by David T．Abercrombie and Ezra Fitch in Manhattan，US．It first focused on high-end sport and traveller's wear．In the 1970s，it had financial difficulties and the business slumped．Till 1988，it was acquired by The Limited group and then the brand was reborn．They remarketed a new position and they mainly did casual luxury．The target group should be university students．In order to sell a new image，they find nice body forms of boys and girls for catalogue promotion．As the models almost looked naked on catalogues，people who aged over 18 could allow to take it．For this issue I had a friend and she had a business trip in US many years ago．She visited the shop，bought some clothes and when checked the bills，she wanted to take away a catalogue．By that time，a salesman insisted her to show her identity card for fear that she was not over 18．My friend was a bit annoyed．Perhaps western people always mistake for Asian people do look forever young！Besides，parents do not like A&F too as their campaign always stress sexy and seductive body figures．Don't you know when they opened a flagship store in Central Hong Kong they hired a lot of shirtless male models who showed off their rippling muscles that drew a lot of ladies attention？Today，not only adults can wear it，if you are aged between 7 and 14，you can wear their A & F Kids as it was launched in 1998.

Though the brand stresses a high-end image，the business strategy runs on a contrary way．The company was fined many times for inequality and racial discrimination and in the end made it notorious．They also brought their keen competitor American Eagle Outfitters to lawsuit because they thought the latter“borrowed”their inspiration．However，the court concluded that their style was different and customers could distinguish it.

By the way，in April 2015，they confirmed that they would not use naked models to promote in shops anymore．Do you think how long they can stay？Abercrombie and Fitch claims they will not use naked models for promotion anymore．Will you believe it？Abercrombie and Fitch声称他们不会再使用赤裸裸的模特，你会相信吗？Shop in Hong Kong：12 Pedder Street，Central，Hong Kong香港地址：香港中环毕打街12号Illustration/插图：Sam黑色女王多彩生活：艾格尼丝bAgnes b — Queen of black with colorful life“无论是设计或生活，我都是踏踏实实做自己喜欢的事！”这就是我们的艾格尼丝b（Agnes b）小姐。她19岁已诞下双胞胎，翌年就与爱人分开，这样的人生可以怎样？她毕业于卢浮宫学院（Ecole du Louvre），读的虽不是设计，但独特的风格已为她赢来第一份工作，就是在《ELLE》杂志当小编。在那里，她对时装的兴趣得以启蒙，两年后就离开了沉闷的文字工作，转投Dorothée Bis门下，做自己喜欢的设计工作，就算薪水低，没有假期也在所不计。

1975年，她在34岁时建立了CMC（Agnes b的前身），同年在Rue du Jour开设第一家店，好友成为她第一批忠实的顾客。Agnes的风格是恒久和略显中性，所以在1981年，她设计的男装也面世了。两年后，她在纽约的苏豪（Soho）区开设第一间海外店，其他商品陆续面世。今天我们可以买到印上Agnes b签名的童装、孕妇装、手表、包、鞋、护肤及化妆品，购物之余可以在她的咖啡厅休息一下，或买束花点缀家居，一切与自然美好的东西都可以在她的店里找到。也许因为生于法国，培育了她对艺术、电影和音乐的热爱，看见她的作品，就像读懂她的情趣，一生追求简单完美。今天不单在世界各地可买到她的产品，她关爱社会的行动也惠及世上有需要的角落，特别是艾滋病病人。

最早识欣赏Agnes的亚洲地区应是日本，因为法国和日本有一条无形的纽带连结着，特别是20世纪90年代，每个女孩子必有一件Agnes的横间条T裇，或是一件黑色的圆领按扣针织外衣，那间条是由肩膊下开始的，所以特别容易记认。今天虽然全球拥有超过200间分店，但Agnes家族并没有忘本，仍然把大部分的生产制造放在家乡，这都是饮水思源的好见证。

“To me，there is a consistency between the fact that the clothes are made here and what I am，what I do，what I love to do”．So it is quoted from our Agnes b．She gave birth to twins when 19．And next year she separated with her lover，and so what would be her life then？She graduated at Ecole du Louvre．Though she did not choose design，her individuality helped her find a job in EllE working as an editor．Inspired by fashion，she quitted after 2 years and worked in Dorothée Bis．Even though the pay was low and had not many holidays，she was keen at it.

In 1975，she was 34，and she established a company CMC，a former Agnes b entity．The same year she opened a shop at Rue du Jour and good friends became her first lot of clients．Agnes b's style is long lasting with a touch of unisexuality．Hence in 1981，she designed menswear．After 2 years，she opened a shop in Soho，US．And afterwards，she had a lot of shops set up overseas．Today we can buy her print logo“Agnes b”whatever in kidswear，maternity wear，watches，bags，shoes，skin care products．After shopping we can either rest at her café corners or buy flowers from them．You can find natural beauty things inside her shops．Perhaps she was brought up in France，she has fostered a good sense of art and admiration of movies and music．So when you view her product，you can understand her taste and she longs for simplicity，and you can find her products across the globe．Besides business，she also cares about social issue particularly in the area of aids.

The first Asian country which admires Agnes b is Japan because France and Japan has an invisible good linkage of relationship．In the 1990s，every girl would wear stripe-T by Agnes，or a black crew-neck of a sweater with snap buttons，and the stripes started below the shoulder line．Today，her shops has more than 200，but most products of Agnes are made in France to express the sense of belonging．Agnes b，a woman who understands and enjoys the art of life.Agnes b，一个懂得享受生命艺术的女人。Shop in Hong Kong：Shop 256，Pacific Place，Admiralty，Hong Kong香港地址：香港金钟太古广场256店Illustration/插图：Alice Cheung Suk Ying没有史蒂夫·乔布斯，没有苹果？Apple — Run without Steve Jobs？

谈起苹果电脑，相信没人会异议其精神领袖是史蒂夫·乔布斯。他是一位有创见有魄力的领导，但同时是一位又固执又火爆的工作伙伴。无可否认，没有他的智慧，我们的电脑、智能手机不会发展到如此地步，原本在电脑发展上的微软（Microsoft）也不能一门独大；而苹果与三星的白热化竞争与诉讼也证明了手机程序设计的重要性及灵活性。相信坊间很多著作已谈及乔布斯，现列举一些大家应该知道的重要时刻：

乔布斯1955年出生于加州，但遭亲生父母遗弃，他本人临终前也不愿见生父一面。1976年4月1日，他与朋友沃兹尼亚克及韦恩成立苹果公司，而苹果商标的灵感是来自物理学家牛顿“苹果从树上掉下来”的创作。1977年出售最早期的苹果电脑。1984年生产Macintosh电脑。1985年乔布斯与各人意见不合，另外成立电脑公司NeXT，并在1986年以1000万美元购入皮克斯（Pixar）成为主要持股人制作动画。1996年乔布斯重归苹果，改朝换代，从此苹果大放异彩，并于1997年推出彩色iMac电脑，2001年推出随身数码播放器iPod，2002年有touch wheel iPod II。2004之后，陆续有mini iPod、iPod nano、iMac、MacBook Pro面世。2008年有MacBook Air和3G iPhone；2010年有iPad、2011年则有iPad II。美国时间2011年10月5日，他因胰脏癌逝世。在此之后，iPhone 5、iPhone 5s及iPhone 5c分别于2012年、2013年发售，iPhone 6和iPhone 6 plus于2014年发售，2015年则有iWatch。

乔布斯曾说过：“人的创见会决定他成为带领者还是追随者。”这是他的格言。而他的离世或多或少影响到苹果的业绩，也令这世界丧失了一点色彩。我自己都是设计人，也用苹果电脑和手机等，当然明白为何设计师都情倾苹果，它简单的美学和使用方法，完全配合个人的独特风格。虽然灵魂不再，但我想他的精神是不会散的。现在苹果由蒂姆·库克（Tim Cook）领导，他强调苹果没有因乔布斯离开而有任何改变，并会一如以往硏发创新。就让我们拭目以待，为乔布斯在世上把关！

When talking about Apple，there is no doubt Steve Jobs was the guru of the company．He was the brain and the innovator but at the same time stubborn and fiery．Nevertheless，the way he explored on computer technology and smart phone development had changed the lives of mankind．Even Microsoft had to strive hard to compete with Steve and lawsuits between Samsung and Apple has proved how keen the competition is on market．In fact，a lot of news talked about Steve's biography already．Now I highlight a few memorable milestones in his life:

Steve was born in California 1955．He was deserted by his bio-parents and even he did not want to reconcile with his father before dead．In April 1 1976，Steve Wozniak，Ronald Wayne and him started up the company．The logo was inspired by the physicist Newton's apple which fell off a tree．In 1977，the company made the first computer．In 1984，they made the first Macintosh．In 1985，Steve could not get along with the partners and left to establish another computer company NeXT．In 1986，he paid US10 million to own Pixar to produce animation．In 1996，he was back to Apple and thereafter the company boomed．Incredible products were launched such as colour iMac computer in 1997．iPod，a digital music player device was made in 2001．In 2002 a touch wheel iPod II was invented．After 2004，we had mini iPod，iPod nano，iMac and MacBook Pro．In 2008 we had MacBook Air，3G iPhone．In 2010 we had iPad，and then iPad II in 2011．However，Steve died of pancreatic cancer on Oct．5 2011 unfortunately．Still，iPhone 5，iPhone 5s and 5c were all launched between 2012 and 2013．iPhone 6 and 6s were just launched in 2014．In 2015 we have iWatch.

He once claimed that innovation distinguishes the difference between a leader and a follower—He definitely was the former．His death really affected Apple business in the past 4 years．In fact，his pass-away made the world a bit dim too．Being a designer，I also use Apple laptop and Iphone．I think simplicity in design and innovative technology are the keys！Though Steve was gone，the spirit is still here on Apple．Now Tim Cook is the leader and he stressed that there was no change and they kept new technology going．Let's see how he leads it!Inspired by a HK Poly University student who gave tribute to Steve：I did mine.灵感来自香港理工大学学生纪念Steve：我创造了我的。Shop in Hong Kong：IFC，Hong Kong香港地址：香港IFC国际金融中心Illustration/插图：David Yeung奥迪：德国品质与工程诚信Audi — German quality and engineering integrity

奥迪（Audi）是“德国名车三宝”之一（另外两者是宝马和奔驰）。它从属于大众集团（Volkswagan）。贵为名车，自有其原因。自1885年至今，奥迪都是豪华轿车的佼佼者，不单有漂亮潇洒的外形，其内部设计豪华也是成功因子之一。更重要的是，他所追求的都是成功男性的梦想，像兰博基尼（Lamborghini）跑车一样！创始人之一奥古斯特·霍希（August Horch）为奥迪命名，其名在拉丁语中为“听”之意。奥迪总部在德国的英戈尔斯塔特（Ingolstadt）。1932年，奥迪合并霍希（Horch）、DKW和流浪者（Wanderer），成立汽车联盟股份公司。四环的奥迪徽章象征着四个品牌的联合。而大众集团在1964年12月收购了大部分汽车联盟股份公司的股票，1966年年底，奥迪成为大众集团旗下的全资子公司。

然而在战争时期，这个做法是失败的。第二次世界大战期间，因经济萧条，奥迪曾一度绝迹，到1965年才重返市场。今日中国贵为最重要的经济发展国，对豪华轿车需求日增，奥迪更被中国政府选为官方专用车，大大提高了在中国的身份和市场。个人意见则是，眼见很多专车也用黑色奥迪，虽然型号不同，但总觉得太有“官方”的感觉，缺乏个性。我反而喜欢兄弟公司大众，因为喜欢自己驾车，贪它的甲虫车变化多端，且车身细小容易走位，当然奥迪卖的是豪华房车，自有司机侍候。所以大家请不要自驾Audi ，否则被以为是司机就不好了！

2000年，奥迪纪念馆于德国英戈尔斯塔特成立，里面摆放着奥迪过往名作，及其他“三环”之汽车作品，更设有临时区及永久区：前者展示最新当代作品，后者是展示1899—2000年间的作品。若读者有兴趣，可参考此地址：Audi Forum Ingolstadt，D-85045 Ingolstadt.

Audi is one of the Germany three most important auto cars．The others are BMW and Benz．Audi is under Volkswagan group．It is expensive because of its history started from 1885，with good performance，high quality of interior and beautiful exterior design，it is always mens' dream car！Just like Lamborghini that every man wishes to own one!“Audi”was named by the founder August Horch and when you translate it to Latin，it means“listen”．Audi is headquartered in Ingolstadt，Germany．In 1932，Audi merged with Horch，DKW and Wanderer to form Auto Union AG．The“four wings”of logo represents these four brands as stated．Volkswagenwerk AG acquired the majority of shares in Auto Union GmbH in December 1964，with Audi was fully owned by the group from the end of 1966．

However，it was not that successful during wartime．In World War II，the world economy slumped and it made Audi collapsed．Till 1965 it could come back！Nowadays China market is absolutely important as people of mainland look for good posh car and also China government commissioned Audi to be official car for the China officials and thus it makes the brand soar on market．It seems a lot of them are black outlook and too formal despite they have different models．On the contrary I like Volkswagan more as I like driving by myself and the design of beetle in form amuses me more as it is smaller and easier to control．Certainly Audi is a posh car and usually they have a private driver to serve their boss．And so you'd better not drive but hire one to serve you instead.

In 2000，Audi museum was founded in Ingolstadt，German．Inside the museum，they exhibit a lot of masterpieces and also other“3 wings”works．They have divided to temporary and permanent sections．The former displays current modern work whereas the latter displays their models between 1899 and 2000．If you feel interested，please refer to the following：Audi Forum Ingolstadt，D-85045 Ingolstadt．Audi has got good quality of interior and exterior design，is like a nice shoe walking free with distinctive quality.Audi有良好的内外设计，就像优良的鞋子一样无拘无束地走动。Shop in Hong Kong：18 Harcourt Road，Admiralty Centre，Admiralty，Hong Kong香港地址：香港金钟海富中心18号一楼Illustration/插图：Sam贵族象征的玻璃：巴卡拉Baccarat — aristocratic glassware

提起法国，除了欣赏她的文化背景及历史外，其孕育多年的艺术生活价值不可不提。而水晶玻璃品牌巴卡拉（Baccarat）就是其中佼佼者——从18世纪开始，巴卡拉已是法国皇室贵族御用的品牌。巴卡拉源地在法国东部，路易十五在此地指派专人从事玻璃制作，经历了三百多年时间。目前，此品牌在日本、土耳其、美国发扬光大。中国亦有其销售店。

她可说是最昂贵的水晶，设计种类包括吊灯、壁灯、烛台、水晶酒具、香水瓶、首饰及小摆设等。一个小摆设最少也要上千元人民币，但细看其手工及设计便觉物有所值。说起巴卡拉，有两件大事不可不提：第一件是2003年与法国鬼才产品设计师菲利普·斯达克（Philip Starck）合作的黑伞水晶吊灯，价值三十多万人民币！要知道老品牌与新派设计师合作需要很大的勇气，而此黑色系列更让菲利普声名大噪；第二件是2005年美国喜达屋集团（Starwood Capital Group）收购了此品牌，于2012年更利用其特色发展起一系列高端度假酒店项目。据他们的计划，将会有一所服务式住宅建立于上海，大家且拭目以待。

2014年，为了庆祝品牌成立250周年，巴卡拉特别用了标志的红色，设计了一系列充满激情和美感的玻璃精品。她虽然不是一般大众的消费品，但拿来送礼也是不错之选，笔者曾收过一对水晶酒杯作为结婚礼物，今天仍然完好放在玻璃柜里，在光影下熠熠生辉，继续传奇！

Thinking of France we will appreciate her culture and history．What is more，the art of living stressed by the country will not be ignored．This premium glassware brand Baccarat is one of the examples．Starting from the 18th century，Baccarat was given permission by the French royal families to make crystal and glass in a place“Baccarat”in eastern France．Louis XV assigned people to work there．Throughout 300 years，the brand was favored by Japan，Turkey and America and nowadays，we can find Baccarat shops in China.

You can say the products are the most expensive crystal in the world．They include but are not limited to chandelier，wall lamp，tableware，perfume bottle，jewelry and mini-decoration．A small decorative product even costs more than 1,000 CNY．But when you check out the craftsmanship and design it is value for money indeed．Besides，there are 2 remarkable events done by the brand—First，in 2003，Baccarat called on Philip Starck，the most iconoclastic French product designer to create a series of black crystal products; and a chandelier with an umbrella which cost more than three hundred thousand CNY，made Philip a great success．We should understand that it takes courage for an old brand to try something new with a new and directional designer like him！Second，an American enterprise Starwood Capital Group acquired Baccarat in 2005 and developed a huge project of chain hotel and residence across the globe in 2012．It was also said one of the residences would be located in Shanghai．Let's wait and see when it will be done．

In order to celebrate the 250th anniversary in 2014，Baccarat used the brand“red”to design a range of vivid glassware．Though the target market is for high end consumer group，the product is still highly appreciated particular for sovenir purpose．I once received a Baccarat glasses by the time I got married，and it is still nicely kept in my glass closet，glittering and lengendary as usual.The art of living in France has fostered a lot of premium brands，Baccarat is one of those.法国的生活艺术已经培育了很多高端品牌，Baccarat是其中之一。Shop in Hong Kong：1a-3a Des Voeux Road，1f/121，Prince Building，Central，Hong Kong香港地址：香港中环德辅道中1a-3a号太子大厦商场1f/121Illustration/插图：David Yeung皮鞋经典：巴利Bally — the classic footwear

已有160年历史的巴利（Bally），原本从事橡胶工业。1849年，卡尔·弗兰茨·巴利（Carl Franz Bally）为帮太太买一对绑绳靴子而游历巴黎，却被引发了做鞋的兴趣。1851年巴利公司成立，1854年开办第一间制鞋工厂。它是在瑞士舒伦活（Schonenwerd）的一个小村落里创立的。到了19世纪70年代，巴利是公认的制鞋行业领导者。1892年，公司名称改为CF Bally。

巴利的哲学是以固有的传统技术，加上现今科技技术融合，将皮料精细地表现出匠心独运的效果。经过350道手续才能完成的“Bally Scribe”皮鞋是巴利鞋中的最受欢迎的经典代表。平均来说，每双巴利皮鞋要经过200道严格的制作与检验才能上市。品质自不在话下。

巴利不断拓展，将艺术与新技术融入皮鞋生产上。如跟有名艺术家合作宣传海报，合作艺术展览等。如2014年的巴塞尔艺术展，以及2015年的“设计上海”（Design Shanghai）。参展观众可在展览中欣赏到让·普鲁维（Jean Prouvé）流动组合屋以及一件为此次展览特别设计的装置艺术作品。开幕式上，巴利全球CEO Frédéric de Narp先生、策展人JéromeSans和特邀艺术家王郁洋现场欢迎莅临的贵宾，并阐述了巴利这一瑞士品牌与独具一格的现代主义建筑思潮之间的渊源。全新巴利2015春夏系列亮相开幕酒会，与现场的艺术界、文化界以及创意行业的精英们共同欣赏了此次艺术盛会。

Bally has more than 160 years of history but in the beginning their main manufacture was ribbon．In 1849 the founder Carl Franz Bally travelled to Paris and he wanted to buy lace-up boots for his wife and then it drew his attention in shoe making．Afterwards he set up a company in 1851．In 1854，he established the first shoe making factory and was located in Schonenwerd，a small village in Switzerland．Until 1870，Bally was alleged the pioneer in shoe making，and in 1892，its name changed to CF Bally.

The philosophy of Bally is to combine their existing techniques and craftsmanship together with new technology so as to show their uniqueness in making leather shoes．One of the renowned shoes“Bally Scribe”was done using 350 procedures to get it finished．And in general，every pair of Bally has to go through 200 phases of manufacturing and testing before launching on market．So you see the quality of the product is superb.

Bally also extends their features to art．For example，they

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