作者：张涛
出版社：江苏凤凰科学技术出版社
格式: AZW3, DOCX, EPUB, MOBI, PDF, TXT
徐州伏羊精品菜点试读：
前言
徐州古称彭城，华夏九州之一，拥有5000多年灿烂文明史。地处江苏省的西北部，苏鲁豫皖四省接壤地区，是亚欧大陆桥东端第一个腹地城市，同时又是淮海经济区的中心城市。自古以来就是军事、文化、交通重镇，素有“五省通衢”“兵家必争之地”之称。近年来，徐州经济发展异常迅猛，其中餐饮业发展有了质的飞跃。以伏羊文化为背景，以两汉文化旅游为目标的餐饮业发展大气候已逐步形成。
徐州伏羊文化历史悠久，发端于彭祖善于烹羊和沿袭古代祭祀“伏日”用羊的传承，根植于宫廷，兴盛于民间。《汉书》记载，皇帝“伏日，诏赐从官肉”，此肉即为羊肉，而且明言是在“伏日”，这足以说明在汉代就存在皇帝与臣共享“伏羊”的习俗。而伏天食羊的文化应追溯到周代，周朝有“伏日祭祀”，在祭祀的祀物中，“三牲羊为首”，故而形成了伏天吃羊的习俗，且这一习俗从徐州的“盛夏伏羊一碗汤，不用神医开药方”这一民谚中得到证实。《汉书·杨恽传》有载：“田家作苦，岁时伏腊，烹羊炰羔，斗酒自劳。”这也是一个明证。徐州民谣唱：“六月六，接姑娘，新麦馍馍熬羊肉。”夏收农忙初过，民间以吃新麦馍馍、熬美味羊肉的形式来欢庆夏季丰收，祈求秋季风调雨顺，在这喜庆的日子，特地把闺女接回家，共享娘家亲情，这就是徐州旧时吃伏羊风俗兴盛于民间的生动写照。
中国人吃羊，可谓食法多样，烹法精湛，而徐州人烹羊吃羊的水平则更胜一筹，“冬吃三九，夏吃三伏”，一年四季无时不食羊，以夏食者甚众，从入伏的第一天至三伏终止，全市各大宾馆、酒店、餐馆，尤其羊肉馆，更是天天生意兴隆，家家爆满，万人吃伏羊，盛况空前，已成为徐州夏季的一道亮丽风景线。“冬补羊肉”国人皆知，那么徐州人伏天食羊有什么道理呢？从传统中医来说，夏天是人体阳气最充足的时候，身体的新陈代谢和消化功能都比较旺盛，加上气温高，湿度大，常常有不舒服的感觉，容易导致休息不充分，损伤脾胃。另外，夏季的冷饮等也极易对人的脾胃造成伤害。而羊肉恰恰具有补脾胃、壮阳、治虚劳寒冷、安心神、止痛等多种功效。所以夏天吃伏羊可以起到中医上讲的“天人相应”，其好处甚多。吃甘温羊肉，再配以葱、姜、蒜、辣椒油等辛辣、燥热之品，可以起到“其在皮者，汗而发之”，即大汗淋漓后可以将人体内滞留的寒气、湿气等毒素排出体外，起到“冬病夏治”的目的。
依徐州伏羊习俗而举办的彭祖伏羊节，已经连续举办了七届，声名远播。2009年中国烹饪协会授予徐州“中国伏羊美食之乡”荣誉称号，徐州伏羊美食已被越来越多的国内外宾客称道。在这种情况下，编撰一本有关徐州伏羊菜点的书籍十分必要。《徐州伏羊精品菜点》是在徐州烹饪协会的指导下，与各大知名宾馆、社会餐饮的一线厨师共同合作，以继承与创新为思路，设计制作出具有时代气息及艺术内涵的精品伏羊美食，每款菜点均以简明文字介绍原料、制作方法和菜品特点，辅以精美图片，并采用中英文对照。纵览全书，读者不仅领略到徐州伏羊美食艺术化的视觉享受，还可以体会伏羊美食深厚的文化底蕴。该书的编辑出版，填补了徐州伏羊文化的空白，也结束了有菜无谱的历史，对徐州伏羊文化的传承与发展起到了标志性的作用。
经过近一年时间的筹划、征稿，这本书终于付梓出版了。在编辑过程中，特别得到了徐州市政协副主席赵彭城的悉心关怀，亲自为本书作序，江苏省徐州技师学院院长朱其训在百忙中为本书题写书名，中国烹饪协会会长苏秋成、常务副会长杨柳和江苏省烹饪协会会长奚秋生凝情润墨为书题词，特此深表谢意。对本书菜点制作、出版等工作予以支持和帮助的领导还有：中国烹饪协会副会长、秘书长冯恩援，江苏省烹饪协会常务副秘书长彭东生、黄铁男、朱宝鼎，江苏省徐州技师学院党委书记王延荣、副院长江浩、吴彬、唐自强、教务处处长路建国、培训鉴定处处长梅永智，以及餐饮业同仁王树长、钱峰、朱诚心、商学兵、韩勇健、尹淑华、徐守富、翟昌伟、赵节昌、柳红卫、薛利民、王利建、王伟、刘杰、陈浩天、陈永、贾新民、吴杰、彭军、袁杰、陈伟，还有我的学生侯彬、唐劲、孙晴、伏立豹等，在此一并致谢。《徐州伏羊精品菜点》虽由本人负责主编，但它是徐州餐饮界集体智慧的结晶。由于时间仓促，水平有限，疏漏和不妥之处在所难免，敬请专家同行不吝指正。2010年9月15日Introduction
Xuzhou, otherwise known as Pengcheng in ancient times, was one of the nine states under the rule of Emperor Yu of the Xia Dynasty. It has a splendid history of civilization more than five thousand years. Xuzhou, located in the northwest of Jiangsu Province, is the region bordering Jiangsu, Shandong, Henan and Anhui Provinces. It is well known for its convenient location as the first city hinterland in the east of the Eurasian Continental Bridge as well as the central city of Huaihai Economic Zone. Since ancient times, Xuzhou is an important town of military, culture and transportation. It is historically called the cross-road of five provinces and the place of conflict. Xuzhou's economic development was extraordinarily rapid over recent years, including the catering industry. Under the goal of Han culture tourism, the overall atmosphere in Xuzhou catering industry reflecting its background of Fuyang culture has been gradually formed.
Fuyang culture has a long history in Xuzhou. It stems from Pengzu's story on cooking mutton and follows the ancient festival custom of eating mutton on the hottest summer day (Furi). This culture is said to be rooted in palace but flourished in folk. According to Hanshu, the emperor granted meat to his officials as gifts on Furi. Here, meat refers to mutton, and the clear statement of "Furi" reflects the fact that it was a custom to share Fuyang among the emperor and his officials in Han Dynasty. Fuyang culture can trace its history to Zhou Dynasty when festivals on Furi were popular and lamb was the top tribute during the festivals. Gradually, the custom of eating mutton on the hottest summer day had taken hold. Just as an old saying goes, if you drink a bowl of mutton soup on summer Fuyang, every disease can be curable even without the help of legendary doctors. It is true in Fuyang's case. Another proof is from Hanshu: Yangyun Biography, after working hard in the filed for a year, the farmers would eat mutton and drink alcohol in hot summer and chilly winter to pamper themselves. A ballad in Xuzhou sings like that, lunar Jun 6th is coming; it's time to pick my daughters up back home; we cooked steamed bun with newly harvested wheat and we used up lamb meat for delicious soup. People in ancient Xuzhou usually celebrated their summer harvest in the forms of eating wheat-made steamed bun and drinking tasty mutton soup after summer harvest. At such a happy moment, they prayed seasonable weather for autumn sowing and picked their daughters up from their husbands' home to enjoy the family happiness. This ballad is a vivid depiction of ancient Fuyang custom in Xuzhou.
Chinese people like eating lamb in many ways and with superb cooking methods. People in Xuzhou, whereas, have a better command of lamb cuisine. We eat lamb on the chilliest winter days as well as on the hottest summer days. We cannot stop our preference to lamb and eat it from spring to winter, especially in summer. From the beginning of Furi to its end, all hotels, restaurants and mutton inns are full of citizens and their business proceeds in a very good way. Such an exceptional grand occasion where hundreds of thousands of citizens enjoy their Fuyang dishes is it that it has even become a bright summer scenery in Xuzhou.
Eating mutton in winter is well-known but why do people in Xuzhou like eating it in summer? In terms of traditional Chinese medicine, summer is the time when yangqi is the most adequate and body metabolism and digestive function are relatively strong. The hot temperature together with humidity usually makes people feel uncomfortable and leads to inadequate rest and thus damages the spleen and stomach. In addition, cold drink in summer also does harm to human spleen and stomach. Mutton has tonic effect and can be a cure for body weakness and for aversion to cold. Besides that, mutton can relieve uneasiness of body and mind and even stop pain. So it is beneficial for us to eat mutton in summer based on the traditional Chinese medicine theory of relevant adaptation of human body to nature environment. If we eat mutton along with some spices like onions, ginger, garlic, and chili oils, we can be covered with sweat after eating and the toxins in our bodies like cold and moisture can be removed and eventually we reach the treatment purpose of winter-disease summer-treatment.
China (Xuzhou) Pengzu Fuyang Festival in accordance with Xuzhou Fuyang custom has been held successively in seven years. It has a widespread reputation for its Fuyang culture. China Cuisine Association (CCA) awarded Xuzhou the honorary title of Hometown of Chinese Food Fuyang in 2009. Xuzhou Fuyang cuisine has been praised by more and more domestic and foreign guests. In such condition, it is necessary to write a book about Xuzhou Fuyang recipes. Fine Dishes of Xuzhou Fuyang is such a book that is compiled under the guidance of Xuzhou Cuisine Association and under the help of first-class chefs in many famous hotels and social catering industries in Xuzhou. It is an art of work with times flavor that encompasses traditional and innovative culinary beliefs. In this book, every dish is presented with a brief introduction of its ingredients, culinary method, and dish features, together with delicate pictures and Chinese-English bilingual translations. Looking it through, readers can not only appreciate the visual enjoyment of the art in Xuzhou Fuyang but also understand the profound cultural background of Fuyang dishes. The publication of this book fills the gaps in Xuzhou Fuyang culture and meanwhile brings the history without recipes to an end. It is therefore a landmark in the development and inheritance of Xuzhou Fuyang culture.
After nearly a year of planning and compilation, this book has finally published. My great gratitude goes to Mr. Zhao Peng-cheng, vice-chairman of Xuzhou Municipal People's Political Consultative Conference, who has shown great care and wrote the preface for this book. My thanks also go to Mr. Zhu Qi-xun, dean of Jiangsu Xuzhou Technician Institute, who has taken time from his busy schedule to inscribe the title of this book in person. I have never lacked support from the president of China Cuisine Association Mr. Su Qiu-cheng, executive vice-president of China Cuisine Association Mrs. Yang Liu and president of Jiangsu Cuisine Association Mr. Xi Qiu-sheng. I hereby gratefully appreciate their inscriptions for this book. I must thank all my leaders for supporting and lending me a hand on the culinary methods and book publication. They are secretary-general (SG) of China Cuisine Association Mr. Feng En-yuan, executive deputy SG of Jiangsu Cuisine Association Mr. Peng Dong-sheng, Mr. Huang Tie-nan and Mr. Zhu Bao-ding, CPC committee secretary of Jiangsu Xuzhou Technician Institute Mr. Wang Yan-rong, assistant Dean Mr. Jiang Hao, Mr. Wu Bin, and Mr. Tang Zi-qiang, head of academic affairs Mr. Lu Jian-guo, head of training and testing affairs Mr. Mei Yong-zhi as well as my catering fellows Wang Shu-chang, Qian Feng, Zhu Cheng-xin, Shang Xue-bing, Han Yong-jian, Yin Shu-hua, Xu Shou-fu, Zhai Chang-wei, Zhao Jie-chang, Liu Hong-wei, Xue Li-min, Wang Li-jian, Wang Wei, Liu Jie, Chen Hao-tian, Chen Yong, Jia Xin-min, Wu Jie, Peng Jun, Yuan Jie, Chen Wei. Last but not least, I thank my students Hou Bin, Tang Jin, Sun Qing, Fu Li-bao and so on for providing me support and help.
Although I am in charge of the compilation of this book Fine Dishes of Xuzhou Fuyang, it is the collective wisdom of the entire catering industry in Xuzhou. Owing to time limitation and inadequate personal competence, errors that restylesheet are very much my responsibility. I am sincerely looking forward to your suggestions and comment.（Zhang Tao，Sep. 15th, 2010）
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