作者：凯特·贝克
出版社：上海译文出版社
格式: AZW3, DOCX, EPUB, MOBI, PDF, TXT
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作者简介
photo by Meredith Kennedy
American born Kate Baker has lived in five countries in Asia and South Africa for the last twenty years. While living in Shanghai, she first “discovered” and fell in love with Jiading in 2011 and since then has visited regularly bringing family, friends, and tour groups. She has cowritten a walking guide book called “Beyond the Concessions: Six Walks in Shanghai’s Other Districts” and a children’s book. Kate is currently working on her next project.
Dedication
For the people of Jiading who welcomed me to their community and trusted me with their narrative.
Acknowledgments
This book would not have been possible without the assistanceand enthusiasm of Sha Minjie of the Jiading Tourism Bureau. Minjie chauffeured me all over the Jiading District and cheerfully endured my endless questions. Zhang Xiaofeng provided essential help with translations and historical information. I would like to extend a special thanks to Tess Johnston for her editing assistance, and my friends who supported me in this venture and accompanied me to Jiading over the years.
Today's Jiading District offers an abundance of economic opportunities, recreational diversions, and a rich cultural heritage. In fact, Jiading has been a leading economic and intellectual influence in the region long before Shanghai became a major trading port. Her history reflects the triumphs and tragedies of China itself. The story began in the years between the Tang Dynasty (618-907) and the Song Dynasty(960-1279) when the structure of Imperial China was reordered by the historical events of the era. It was at this time that the towns of Jiading, Nanxiang, and Anting developed from small villages into prosperous trading centers. It is not insignificant that these changes in structure remained in place until the end of the Imperial Empire in 1911.
By the tenth and eleventh centuries, China's population had doubled in size. Agricultural improvements in rice cultivation yielded an increase in food production and the exponential growth of revenues. In southern China, the many tributaries branching out from the Yangzi River created a delta replete with a network of interconnected waterways. The Chinese utilized the water as a means of travel. Since water travel was a cheaper method of transportation, this provided the South with a trade advantage over northern China's reliance on more expensive land travel. Water transportation and commercial exchange became the key assets that generated profound wealth within the market towns located along the rivers and canals of the delta. This wealth led to the emergence of a Confucian literati or scholarly class with an enthusiasm and passion for the arts, philosophy, and literature.
Yet to understand the nuances of this historical period, let's go back even further to look at a few major changes that took place in the course of those in-between years. During the Tang Dynasty, powerful clans or families held both the land and wealth of the kingdom and served as government officials for the emperor. Throughout the warring years between the Tang and the Song Dynasties, the Song armies slaughtered the dominant Tang families resulting in the elimination of the wealthy clans altogether. Their demise left a void in the power structure, and thus the imperial examination, which had existed in some form since the Han Dynasty (202 BCE - 220 CE), became the measure that determined a man's worthiness to serve the emperor. In the Song Dynasty, the rigorous examination based on Confucian scholarship became institutionalized leading to a class of scholar-officials who fulfilled the duties of governance from the local to the national levels. As a result of the growth of the examination's influence, the number of students taking the exam rose from 30,000 in the eleventh century to 400,000 by the late thirteenth century.
Improvements in technology were very significant in the course of China's growth during this period. The first Navy was es- tablished and gunpowder made its appearance. The ability to find True North using a compass was also a major development. Paper money was introduced, and a posta system provided communication throughout the empire. In the Tang Dynasty, people were reading from scrolls while in the Song Dynasty, people were reading from books.
The Song Dynasty is divided into two time periods, the Northern (960-1127) and Southern (1127-1279). Each period, including the warring years between the Tang and the Song, contributed consequentially to the changes that took place during this span of time.
When invaders from the North, the Jurchen (nomadic ancestors of the Manchu) defeated the Song armies in 1127, the remains of the dynasty retreated to southern China establishing the Southern Song Dynasty capital in Lin'an (now Hangzhou) from which the kingdom was administered. With the South's advantage of fertile agricultural lands, the defeat did little to affect the Southern Song Dynasty economically. Trade continued to flourish amongst the many small communities linked by waterways in the alluvial Yangzi River Delta. Besides the capital city, many centers of commerce developed, creating a less centralized authority. A locally administered government gave the district gentry more responsibility and appointed officials from the capital relied on the scholarly class to supervise the affairs at provincial and county levels.
A simple change in marital matchmaking customs created a major cultural shif in the empire. During the Tang and the Northern Song (960-1127) Dynasties, the capital cities of Chang'an (Xi'an) and Kaifeng (in Henan Province) respectively were the dominant centers for the cultural, commercial, and administrative activities of imperial China. Government officials from throughout the kingdom traveled to the capital to conduct their affairs, and the capital city became the elite's marriage market. Families arranged marriages all across the empire. This tradition changed during the Southern Song Dynasty. In order to consolidate their influence and protect their local power, the elite's priorities became narrowly focused, and they arranged family marriages within their own regional districts.
While Buddhism's impact was significant, Neo-Confucianism was on the rise. Neo-Confucianism was a secular renewal of Confucian values without the mystical influences of Daoism and Buddhism. Gaining knowledge and the "investigation of things" were the pastime of the literati.
The culture of the Song Dynasty reached a highly sophisticated level. Entertainment and social clubs grew in popularity. The scholarly class opened private schools and established social welfare programs. In order to protect their interests, merchants and artisans formed guilds and built elegant guild halls. The Song's elite enjoyed a society that was gracious and refined. The decorative arts such as painting and ceramics reached their zenith in technical refinement. The Emperor's Imperial Painting Academy instituted very strict guidelines for style and format focusing on nature as subject matter. Perfect in their simplicity of form and decoration, pottery of this period is considered to be the most refined and greatest artistic achievement of any time.
Meanwhile, economic development and commercial activity expanded in the subsequent dynasties. Regions began to specialize in the production of goods and agricultural products. For instance, tea was grown in one region while cotton was produced in another. Jingdezhen became the center of ceramic arts while Suzhou became the center for silk production. With the rise of wealth, the educated literati became more influential in the imperial government.
By the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the rivers around Jiading had silted up altering the conditions for growing rice. Local leaders determined that cotton was a wellsuited alternative for the rice farmers and plantings shifted from rice to a cash crop, cotton. The Jiading area developed a reputation for high quality cotton raw material and finished woven products.
Another period of growth and prosperity for Jiading was in the Ming (1368-1644) and the Qing (1644-1911) Dynasties. However, it is the war in between that placed Jiading in the annals of Chinese history for her principled adherence to Confucian teachings and resistance against the Qing Dynasty.
Near the end of the Ming Dynasty, corruption amongst government officials was unrestrained and widespread. Early in the seventeenth century, a group of scholars and literati called for reform and a renewal of moral values. As the movement coalesced in the southern regions, it became known as the Restoration Society and gained a very influential position in imperial politics. The landowners, literati, and official families who hoped to re-establish Ming's legitimacy by restoring Confucian values became known as the "Jiading Loyalists".
Meanwhile, Qing magistrates sent an edict into each community enforcing the mandate to adopt the male Manchu hairstyle, a practice abhorred by the Confucians. The style, called the queue, required shaving the front half of the head and braiding the long hair in the back. Confucians believed that to cut one's hair was an insult to one's parents.
As the Qing (Manchu) army moved south conquering every Ming stronghold, conflicting loyalties amongst the Chinese led to confusion and schisms within the Jiangnan prefecture. Some towns that had vowed to resist the Qing, capitulated at the last moment. The first casualties of the assault in Jiading County were the deaths of seven women who resisted being violated by the northern army. Nanxiang's defense corps decided to surrender to avoid harm, but the defense corps leader and the most prominent literati family (the family of Li Liufang) were murdered by local mobs who accused them of being collaborators with the Qing.
By the time the Qing army reached the city walls of Jiading, the word that some towns had acquiesced to the Qing army without resistance came too late for the Jiading loyalists. On a sultry August day in 1645, a 54 year-old scholar official surnamed Hou along with two of his sons waited for the enemy at the East Gate. At the West Gate, the Hou family tutor, Huang, and his younger brother prepared to fight and die. The Ming reinforcements they had requested consisted of 300 frazzled soldiers who were quickly routed at the first charge by the enemy. Having lost most of their supplies, the loyalists fought with their bare hands for an entire day throwing rocks and roof tiles at the enemy. By dawn Qing troops rushed the city walls and proceeded to brutally murder, rape, and mutilate 20,000 men, women, and children until sunset. All but one of the leaders committed suicide. (See page 38 for the Hou and Huang Memorial in Huilongtan Park.)
Considering the magnitude of the atrocity in Jiading and its environs, the recovery process was relatively brief as peace engendered the continuation of commercial and social activity. Until it was banned in 1661, the Restoration Society in the delta region continued to promote Confucian ideology and to send their members to take the civil examination. Their successes shaped the early Qing culture. By the 1680s the literati had fully recovered their position and status in government and society. However, for the elite of Jiading, the recovery was lengthier. It is estimated that only nine holders of the provincial or palace degree survived the Qing conquest. In the ensuing years, the literati of Jiading appeared to have become less engaged in statecraft and more focused on philanthropy and personal scholarship. It was not until about 50 years after the massacre that Jiading was once again influential in the imperial government in Beijing.
In the last few decades, Jiading has regained its position as a regional player in the Yangzi River Delta. As a high growth district of Shanghai, Jiading offers a quality of lifestyle and tourism that is unique within the region.
Lay of the Land
Jiading is a district of Shanghai, which lies west and slightly north of downtown Shanghai. By metro, Jiading Town is reachable in 40 minutes from Jiangsu Lu Station on line 11. By car, the time is about 45 minutes depending on traffic.
Old Jiading, or Zhouqiao, is circled by a "moat" which once surrounded the outer walls of the city. The "moat" is the Huancheng River, with two waterways the Hengli flowing north-south and the Lianqi flowing east-west, crisscrossing in the middle. At the very center of the circle is the Fahua Pagoda. Jiading New City is directly south of the older part of town. The northern and eastern countryside of Jiading District is dedicated to farms, orchards, and grape vineyards To the southeast is the city of Nanxing and southwest is Anting.
Many small farm villages lie in the northern and eastern regions of the district.
Transportation
Metro:Line 11 goes directly to Anting, Nanxiang, and Jiading. From the Jiangsu Lu Station travel time is about 30 minutes to Anting, 20 minutes to Nanxiang, and 40 minutes to Jiading. Take note of the split in the line at Jiading Xincheng Station and be sure to take the correct train. Upon arrival at the appointed station, take a tax or bus to the location you wish to visit.
Taxi or Self-drive: From People's Square, take the Inner Ring Road north, then the Middle Ring Road, then the Hujia Expressway S-5.
For Nanxiang: take the Nanxiang exit. Turn left to Fenxiang Lu, right to Zhennan Lu, right to Guyiyuan Lu, left to Minzhu Jie, after about 500 meters, you wil arrive at a parking area on the right side which places you at Yunxiang Temple.
For Jiading: Take the Jiading exit, which puts you on Bole Lu. After four traffic lights, turn left on Shaxia Lu. The Tourist Information Center is on the right. Continue on to the end of the block, turn right on Nanda Jie. Parking is a half a block on the right. This is the entrance to the Confucius Temple and Huilongtan Park or you can begin at the park entrance adjacent to the Information Center.
For Anting: Take the Middle Ring Road, then G2 (Jing-hu Highway) , take the Anting Exit. Go to South Moyu Lu, turn right to Boyuan Lu, you will see the Shanghai Auto Expo Park and Shanghai Auto Museum. See the Anting chapter for detailed directions to ea ch venue.
Information Centers: These centers can be very useful for maps, umbrella, wheelchair or stroller rentals, minor first aid, and toilets. You may have to leave a deposit to use the stroller or wheelchair, but the service is free. Usually, there is an English speaker available.
Jiading
Address:68 Shaxia Lu, 5991-2999 or 5991-8114
Open:8:30-17:00
Access:Jiading North Station, Line 11 plus taxi
Nanxiang Old Street
Address:206 Jiefang Lu, 5912-5503
Open:8:30-17:00
Access:Center of Nanxiang Old Town
Malu Grape Art Village
Address:285 Dazhi Lu, 5951-7188
Open:9:00-17:00
Access:Malu Station, Line 11, Malu No.1 Bus
Anting Auto Expo Park
Address:7001 Boyuan Lu, 6950-2570
Open: 9:00-17:00
Access:Anting Station, Line 11 plus taxi
Huating Farm
Address:518 Shuangzhu Lu, 5997-5427
Open:9:00-17:00
Access:Jiading North Station, Line 11, Jiatanghua BusCelebrate the Seasons: Festivals in Jiading
No matter what the season, Jiading
District celebrates with a variety of activities and seasonal viewings.
Spring
Shanghai Auto Cultural Festival at the Shanghai International Circuit in Anting
Wisteria Flower Festival at the Wisteria Garden in Jiading
Summer
Malu Grape Festival in Malu
Bamboo and Lotus Culture Festival at Guyi Garden, Nanxiang
Autumn
Confucius Culture Festival at the Confucius Temple in Jiading Old Town
Huating Agriculture Park Harvest Tour in Jiading
Nanxiang Xiaolongbao Festival in Nanxiang Old Town
Anting Auto Culture Week at the Shanghai International Circuit
Winter
Lantern Festival at Guyi Garden in Nanxiang
In the years before the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279), Jiading was a mar keting center called Lianqi under the jurisdiction of Suzhou. One of the prosperou market towns of the Yangzi River Delta, Jiading established itself as a distinct cente of commerce and culture in 1218. This period was called the "Jiading Time" of th Southern Song Dynasty, and the new district changed its named to this imperial inspired moniker. (Jiading Time 1208-1224 was the "era name" or "slogan" of Em peror Ningzong.)
Like most other towns in the delta region, cotton was the major trading commod ity, and merchants utilized the interconnecting canals and rivers for transporting goods. Success in the merchant trade brought great wealth and all its trappings to th area. A development of the scholarly class yielded the art of bamboo carving dur ing the Ming Dynasty. The establishment of the Jiading Confucius Temple in 1219 confirmed the city's status as a symbol of enlightenment and sophistication. Jiading has a legacy of taking pride in the many scholars and famous people it has nurtured over hundreds of years. The region has also been recognized for its exceptional gras weaving products.
The Zhouqiao Bridge (also called Denglong Bridge, meaning "Ascending Dragon Bridge) was built in 1245 and crosses the Lianqi River. This area is the very center o old Jiading or Zhouqiao. The pagoda is just a little south of the bridge.
Fahua Pagoda
Address:394 Nanda Jie, 5992-8800
Open:8:00-16:30
Cost:free of charge
Access:Jiading North Station, Line 11 plus taxi
At the center of the old city, Fahua Pagoda has been an architectural beacon of the region for over 800 years. Built in 1205-07 before Jiading became a formal city, it is protected as one of Shanghai's cultural relics. Buddhism was a significant religion during the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279). A Buddhist Temple once stood on these grounds, but it has long disappeared. Resolutely, the Fahua Pagoda remained standing throughout the many ensuing centuries to witness the tragedies, triumphs, developments, and changes that have occurred in Jiading.
According to legend, the students and scholars of Jiading were not doing very well on their examinations. It was proposed that a pagoda built in the city center would bring wisdom and educational excellence to Jiading. After completion, the structure did indeed resemble a writing brush thus earning the title of "Writing Brush Peak". With the pagoda now in their midst, the students and scholars began passing the imperial examinations. Indeed, Jiading boasts of a substantial share of China's scholars.
The Fahua Pagoda has been repaired and rebuilt many times. Having undergone major restorations in 1318 and in 1608, it retains the architectural style of the Ming Dynasty. During the 1996 maintenance, an underground caché of Song, Yuan, and Ming Dynasty relics were discovered. These items are currently in the new Jiading Museum. A time capsule containing items from the twentieth century was put in its place at the time of the refurbishment.
On top of the pagoda sits a gourd shaped form called a "treasure vase" symbolizing the treasure of Buddhism. Copper bells hanging on the four corners of each floor serve three functions: the bells ring when the wind blows, the ringing frightens away birds which protects the structure, and for decoration.
Arch in courtyard: Moved to this location, the Ming Dynasty style arch onc graced the residence of the wife of an Emperor. So the story goes, but no one is re ally quite sure. Written on the stele of the arch are the characters of shengzhi mean ing "by order of the Emperor".
Zhuyun Hall: This structure, also known as "House of Flying Clouds", is th former residence of Wang Mu, a jinshi (the highest level graduate of the imperial ex amination) scholar in the early Qing Dynasty and a wealthy salt merchant. The Qing style house was moved to the pagoda courtyard location from East Main Street and displays an exhibition on the life of Hu Juewen, a twentieth century businessman.
Wang Jingming, son of Wang Mu, was the first person of Jiading to become zhuangyuan (first place scholar of the imperial examination). As a result of his schol arship, he held a very high government position during the reign of Emperor Kangxi The Emperor grew very fond of Jingming, personally tutoring him in painting and calligraphy and spoiling him with fine homes and holidays. As an honor to Wang Jingming and his parents, the Emperor wrote a banner board for their home, "Qi Nian", meaning "Hall of Equal Age". Jingming's parents were each 74 years old at the time. When his father died, he immediately rushed home. Jingming's grief was so profound that he died just two years later.
A tribute to the life of Hu Juewen can be found inside Zhuyun Hall.
Life Exhibition of Hu Juewen
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