Lights and Shadows of New York Life or, the Sights and Sensations of the Great C(txt+pdf+epub+mobi电子书下载)


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作者:McCabe, James Dabney, 1842-1883

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Lights and Shadows of New York Life or, the Sights and Sensations of the Great C

Lights and Shadows of New York Life or, the Sights and Sensations of the Great C试读:

PREFACE.

It is the desire of every American to see New York, the largest and most wonderful city in the Union.  To very many the city and its attractions are familiar, and the number of these persons is increased by thousands of new comers every year.  A still greater number, however, will know the Great City only by the stories that reach them through their friends and the newspapers.  They may never gaze upon its beauties, never enjoy its attractions in person.  For their benefit I have written these pages, and I have endeavored to present to them a faithful picture of the “Lights and Shadows” of the life of this City, and to describe its “Sights and Sensations” as they really exist.

This Great City, so wonderful in its beauty, so strange to eyes accustomed only to the smaller towns of the land, is in all respects the most attractive sight in America, and one of the most remarkable places in the world, ranking next to London and Paris in the extent and variety of its attractions.  Its magnificence is remarkable, its squalor appalling.  Nowhere else in the New World are seen such lavish displays of wealth, and such hideous depths of poverty.  It is rich in historical associations and in treasures of art.  It presents a wonderful series of combinations as well as contrasts of individual and national characteristics.  It is richly worth studying by all classes, for it is totally different from any other city in the world.  It is always fresh, always new.  It is constantly changing, growing greater and more wonderful in its power and splendors, more worthy of admiration in its higher and nobler life, more generous in its charities, and more mysterious and appalling in its romance and its crimes.  It is indeed a wonderful city.  Coming fresh from plainer and more practical parts of the land, the visitor is plunged into the midst of so much beauty, magnificence, gayety, mystery, and a thousand other wonders, that he is fairly bewildered.  It is hoped that the reader of these pages will be by their perusal better prepared to enjoy the attractions, and to shun the dangers of New York.  It has been my effort to bring home to those who cannot see the city for themselves, its pleasures and its dangers, and to enable them to enjoy the former without either the fatigue or expense demanded of an active participant in them, and to appreciate the latter, without incurring the risks attending an exploration of the shadowy side of the Great City.

To those who intend visiting New York, whether they come as strangers, or as persons familiar with it, the writer has a word to say, which he trusts may be heeded.  An honest effort has been made in this work to present the reader with a fair description of the dangers to which visitors and citizens are alike exposed.  For the purpose of performing this task, the writer made visits, in company with the police officials of the city, to a number of the places described in this work, and he is satisfied that no respectable person can with safety visit them, unless provided with a similar protection.  The curiosity of all persons concerning the darker side of city life can be fully satisfied by a perusal of the sketches presented in this volume.  It is not safe for a stranger to undertake to explore these places for himself.  No matter how clever he may consider himself, no respectable man is a match for the villains and sharpers of New York, and he voluntarily brings upon himself all the consequences that will follow his entrance into the haunts of the criminal and disreputable classes.  The city is full of danger.  The path of safety which is pointed out in these pages is the only one for either citizen or stranger—an absolute avoidance of the vicinity of sin.

Those who have seen the city will, I am sure, confirm the statements contained herein, and will acknowledge the truthfulness of the picture I have drawn, whatever they may think of the manner in which the work is executed.

                                    J. D. McC., Jr.

  New York,

      March 21st, 1872

CONTENTS.

I.THE CITY OF NEW YORK33I. Historical33II. Descriptive and Statistical49II.THE HARBOR OF NEW YORK59III.THE CITY GOVERNMENT64IV.THE RING75I. The History of the Ring7510II. Personnel of the Ring011V.BROADWAY811I. Historical812II. Descriptive313VI.SOCIETY513I. Analytical514II. Fashionable Extravagance115III. Fashionable Follies315IV. Fashionable Children515V. A Fashionable Belle716VI. Fashionable Entertainments216VII. Marriage and Death617VII.THE MUNICIPAL POLICE118VIII.THE BOWERY619IX.PUBLIC SQUARES419I. The Battery419II. The Bowling Green619III. The Park720IV. Other Parks020X.THE FIFTH AVENUE421XI.STREET TRAVEL121I. The Street Cars121II. The Stages622III. Steam Railways122XII.HORACE GREELEY523XIII.THE TOMBS224XIV.THE PRESS424I. The Daily Journals425II. The Weekly Press525XV.WALL STREET825I. The Street826II. The Stock Exchange426III. The Government Board927IV. The Gold Exchange227V. Curbstone Brokers527VI. The Business Of The Street627VII. Stock Gambling928VIII. The Ways Of The Street429IX. Black Friday029XVI.THE FERRIES930XVII.THE HOTELS431XVIII.IMPOSTORS632XIX.STREET MUSICIANS433XX.THE CENTRAL PARK235XXI.THE DETECTIVES135I. The Regular Force136II. Private Detectives437XXII.WILLIAM B. ASTOR237XXIII.FASHIONABLE SHOPPING538XXIV.BLEECKER STREET639XXV.CEMETERIES039I. Greenwood039II. Cyprus Hills139III. Woodlawn239IV. Calvary, and the Evergreens339XXVI.THE CLUBS439XXVII.THE FIVE POINTS839I. Life in the Shadow840II. The Cellars541III. The Missions242XXVIII.THE MILITARY242XXIX.NASSAU STREET643XXX.THE METROPOLITAN FIRE DEPARTMENT044XXXI.THE BUSINESS OF NEW YORK144XXXII.THE SABBATH IN NEW YORK544XXXIII.THE POST OFFICE844I. Internal Arrangements845II. The New Post Office646III. The Letter Carriers046XXXIV.A. T. STEWART447XXXV.PLACES OF AMUSEMENT047I. The Theatres048II. Minor Amusements548XXXVI.THE MARKETS749XXXVII.THE CHURCHES149I. The Sacred Edifices149II. The Clergy850XXXVIII.BOARDING-HOUSE LIFE250XXXIX.THE RESTAURANTS851XL.THE CHEAP LODGING HOUSES151XLI.THE LIBRARIES351XLII.PROFESSIONAL MEN952XLIII.PROFESSIONAL CRIMINALS252I. The Thieves253II. The Pickpockets153III. The Female Thieves353IV. The River Thieves453V. The Fences954VI. The Roughs254XLIV.THE PAWNBROKERS655XLV.THE BEER GARDENS055JAMES FISK, JR.XLVI.556XLVII.TRINITY CHURCH557XLVIII.THE HOLIDAYS257I. New Year’s Day257II. Christmas757XLIX.THE SOCIAL EVIL957I. The Lost Sisterhood958II. Houses of Assignation758III. The Street Walkers959IV. The Concert Saloons459V. The Dance Houses760VI. Harry Hill’s060VII. Masked Balls461VIII. Personals161IX. The Midnight Mission461L.CHILD MURDER8THE EAST RIVER ISLANDS AND THEIR 63LI.INSTITUTIONS163I. Blackwell’s Island164II. Ward’s Island064III. Randall’s Island164LII.BENEVOLENT AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS865LIII.HENRY WARD BEECHER565LIV.BLACK-MAILING866LV.FEMALE SHARPERS266I. Fortune Tellers and Clairvoyants266II. Matrimonial Brokers466LVI.EDUCATIONAL ESTABLISHMENTS666I. The Free Schools667II. The Colleges167LVII.JEROME PARK567LVIII.COMMODORE VANDERBILT768LIX.THE BUMMERS068LX.TENEMENT HOUSE LIFE369LXI.CHATHAM STREET970LXII.JAMES GORDON BENNETT370LXIII.DRUNKENNESS671LXIV.WHAT IT COSTS TO LIVE IN NEW YORK071LXV.GAMBLING571I. Faro Banks572II. Lotteries672III. Policy Dealing873LXVI.PETER COOPER173LXVII.THE “HEATHEN CHINEE”473LXVIII.STREET CHILDREN874LXIX.SWINDLERS575LXX.ROBERT BONNER675LXXI.PUBLIC BUILDINGS976LXXII.PATENT DIVORCES877LXXIII.CROTON WATER WORKS477LXXIV.EXCURSIONS878LXXV.SAILORS IN NEW YORK278LXXVI.THE BALLET979LXXVII.THE POOR OF NEW YORK679I. The Deserving Poor680II. The Beggars280LXXVIII.QUACK DOCTORS581LXXIX.YOUNG MEN’S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION181LXXX.CASTLE GARDEN682LXXXI.WORKING WOMEN283LXXXII.STREET VENDERS183LXXXIII.THE WHARVES583LXXXIV.THE MORGUE984LXXXV.THE CUSTOM HOUSE384LXXXVI.MISSING8

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

General View of New York City, showing the Bridge Frontispiece.connecting it with BrooklynOffices of the Tribune, Times, and World8Grand Central Railway Depot9First Settlement of New York37New York in 166445Broadway, looking up from Exchange Place53The City Hall Park in 186956The Harbor of New York, as seen from the Narrows60A. Oakey Hall, Mayor of New York81William M. Tweed82The New County Court House83The Robbery of the Vouchers from the Comptroller’s 94OfficeRichard B. Connolly104Peter B. Sweeny105Broadway, at the corner of Ann street124A. T. Stewart’s Wholesale Store125New York Life Insurance Company’s building, corner 127of Broadway and Leonard streetBroadway, as seen from the St. Nicholas Hotel129Saturday Afternoon Concert at Central Park132A Fashionable Promenade on Fifth avenue137The German165Female Prisoners in the Fourth Police Station176A Winter Night Scene in a Police Station181The Bowery189The City Hall Park198The Washington Statue in Union Square201Fifth avenue, near Twenty-first street205Junction of the Fifth avenue and Thirty-fourth street, 209showing the new residence of A. T. Stewart, EsqNew Palace-car for City travel, in use on the Third 213avenue lineTunnel under Broadway223Horace Greeley231The Tombs233The Bridge of Sighs234Interior of Male Prison235The Prison Chapel237Court of Special Sessions240“Black Maria”243Printing House Square246The Herald Office249Wall street259United States Sub-treasury261The Stock Exchange265The New York Stock Exchange Board in Session267The Park Bank, Broadway278Scene in the Gold Room—Black Friday291Broad street on Black Friday296The Astor House305St. Nicholas Hotel307Fifth avenue Hotel310The Soldier Minstrel323View from the Upper Terrace333Foot-bridge in Central Park335The Marble Arch338Vine-covered Walk, overlooking the Mall341The Terrace, as seen from the Lake344View on the Central Lake346A Female Shoplifter376A. T. Stewart’s Retail Store382Lord and Taylor’s Dry Goods Store384A Five Points Rum Shop399A Five Points Lodging Cellar407The Ladies’ Five Points Mission413The Howard Mission (as it will appear when 419completed)Nassau street427Fire Alarm Signal-box435A Fire in New York438The Old Post-office449The New Post-office457Booth’s Theatre471Grand Opera House474Academy of Music477The Old Bowery Theatre478Washington Market488The New St. Patrick’s Cathedral496Union Square505Lafayette Place514Clinton Hall517The occasional fate of New York Thieves525The River Thieves537A Fence Store in Chatham street541The Rough’s Paradise543The Atlantic Garden552James Fisk, Jr557Jay Gould560Trinity Church569New Year’s Calls575The result of following a Street Walker592Noonday Prayer Meeting at Water street Home599Harry Hill’s Dance House602Scene in the Magdalen Asylum616Residence of the Keeper of the Almshouse632Small-pox Hospital633Charity Hospital634New York Penitentiary635Guard-boats636Almshouse637The Workhouse639House of Refuge: Randall’s Island642Bloomingdale Asylum for the Insane649St. Luke’s Hospital650Institution for the Blind652Henry Ward Beecher657A New York Free School667The Free College of New York669University of New York672Columbia College673The Cooper Institute674Cornelius Vanderbilt679A New York Tenement House684An inside View of a Tenement House688Chatham Square700James Gordon Bennett705A Female Drinker708A First-class Gambling House717The Skin Game723Peter Cooper733Chinese Candy Dealer736The Newsboys739Attack on a Swindler746A Stranger’s Exit from a “Cheap John Shop”752The Pocket-book Game754Robert Bonner758The City Hall760Tammany Hall763National Academy of Design764Steinway & Son’s Piano Factory765The High Bridge775The Fifth avenue Reservoir776U. S. Navy Yard, Brooklyn779West Point780New York Seamen’s Exchange Building786The Ballet790The Poor in Winter797The City Missionary800Young Men’s Christian Association Hall812The Library814The Battery and Castle Garden817Emigrant Hospital819The Sewing-girl’s Home823Stewart’s Home for Working Women829Street Venders832Shoe Latchets832“Glass put in!”832Balloon Man832Boat Stores836The Morgue840The Custom House844The Fate of Hundreds of Young Men849 I.  THE CITY OF NEW YORKI.  HISTORICAL.

On the morning of the 1st of May, 1607, there knelt at the chancel of the old church of St. Ethelburge, in Bishopsgate street, London, to receive the sacrament, a man of noble and commanding presence, with a broad intellectual forehead, short, close hair, and a countenance full of the dignity and courtly bearing of an honorable gentleman.  His dress bespoke him a sailor, and such he was.  Immediately upon receiving the sacrament, he hastened from the church to the Thames, where a boat was in waiting to convey him to a vessel lying in the stream.  But little time was lost after his arrival on board, and soon the ship was gliding down the river.  The man was an Englishman by birth and training, a seaman by education, and one of those daring explorers of the time who yearned to win fame by discovering the new route to India.  His name was Henry Hudson, and he had been employed by “certain worshipful merchants of London” to go in search of a North-east passage to India, around the Arctic shores of Europe, between Lapland and Nova Zembla, and frozen Spitzbergen.  These worthy gentlemen were convinced that since the effort to find a North-west passage had failed, nothing remained but to search for a North-east passage, and they were sure that if human skill or energy could find it, Hudson would succeed in his mission.  They were not mistaken in their man, for in two successive voyages he did all that mortal could do to penetrate the ice fields beyond the North Cape, but without success.  An impassable barrier of ice held him back, and he was forced to return to London to confess his failure.  With unconquerable hope, he suggested new means of overcoming the difficulties; but while his employers praised his zeal and skill, they declined to go to further expense in an undertaking which promised so little, and the “bold Englishman, the expert pilot, and the famous navigator” found himself out of employment.  Every effort to secure aid in England failed him, and, thoroughly disheartened, he passed over to Holland, whither his fame had preceded him.

The Dutch, who were more enterprising, and more hopeful than his own countrymen, lent a ready ear to his statement of his plans, and the Dutch East India Company at once employed him, and placed him in command of a yacht of ninety tons, called the Half Moon, manned by a picked crew.  On the 25th of March, 1609, Hudson set sail in this vessel from Amsterdam, and steered directly for the coast of Nova Zembla.  He succeeded in reaching the meridian of Spitzbergen; but here the ice, the fogs, and the fierce tempests of the North drove him back, and turning to the westward, he sailed past the capes of Greenland, and on the 2nd of July was on the banks of Newfoundland.  He passed down the coast as far as Charleston Harbor, vainly hoping to find the North-west passage, and then in despair turned to the northward, discovering Delaware Bay on his voyage.  On the 3rd of September he arrived off a large bay to the north of the Delaware, and passing into it, dropped anchor “at two cables’ length from the shore,” within Sandy Hook.  Devoting some days to rest, and to the exploration of the bay, he passed through The Narrows on the 11th of September, and then the broad and beautiful “inner bay” burst upon him in all its splendor, and from the deck of his ship he watched the swift current of the mighty river rolling from the north to the sea.  He was full of hope now, and the next day continued his progress up the river, and at nightfall cast anchor at Yonkers.  During the night the current of the river turned his ship around, placing her head down stream; and this fact, coupled with the assurances of the natives who came out to the Half Moon in their canoes, that the river flowed from far beyond the mountains, convinced him that the stream flowed from ocean to ocean, and that by sailing on he would at length reach India—the golden land of his dreams.

Thus encouraged, he pursued his way up the river, gazing with wondering delight upon its glorious scenery, and listening with gradually fading hope to the stories of the natives who flocked to the water to greet him.  The stream narrowed, and the water grew fresh, and long before he anchored below Albany, Hudson had abandoned the belief that he was in the Northwest passage.  From the anchorage, a boat’s crew continued the voyage to the mouth of the Mohawk.  Hudson was satisfied that he had made a great discovery—one that was worth fully as much as finding the new route to India.  He was in a region upon which the white man’s eye had never rested before, and which offered the richest returns to commercial ventures.  He hastened back to New York Bay, took possession of the country in the name of Holland, and then set sail for Europe.  He put into Dartmouth in England, on his way back, where he told the story of his discovery.  King James I. prevented his continuing his voyage, hoping to deprive the Dutch of its fruits; but Hudson took care to send his log-book and all the ship’s papers over to Holland, and thus placed his employers in full possession of the knowledge he had gained.  The English at length released the Half Moon, and she continued her voyage to the Texel.

The discovery of Hudson was particularly acceptable to the Dutch, for the new country was rich in fur-bearing animals, and Russia offered a ready market for all the furs that could be sent there.  The East India Company, therefore, refitted the Half Moon after her return to Holland, and despatched her to the region discovered by Hudson on a fur trading expedition, which was highly successful.  Private persons also embarked in similar enterprises, and within two years a prosperous and important fur trade was established between Holland and the country along the Mauritius, as the great river discovered by Hudson had been named, in honor of the Stadtholder of Holland.  No government took any notice of the trade for a while, and all persons were free to engage in it.

Among the adventurers employed in this trade was one Adrian Block, noted as one of the boldest navigators of his time.  He made a voyage to Manhattan Island in 1614, then the site of a Dutch trading post, and had secured a cargo of skins with which he was about to return to Holland, when a fire consumed both his vessel and her cargo, and obliged him to pass the winter with his crew on the island.  They built them log huts on the site of the present Beaver street, the first houses erected in New York, and during the winter constructed a yacht of sixteen tons, which Block called the Onrust—the “Restless.”  In this yacht Block made many voyages of discovery, exploring the coasts of Long Island Sound, and giving his name to the island near the eastern end of the sound.  He soon after went back to Europe.

Meanwhile, a small settlement had clustered about the trading post and the huts built by Block’s shipwrecked crew, and had taken the name of New Amsterdam.  The inhabitants were well suited to become the ancestors of a great nation.  They were mainly Dutch citizens of a European Republic, “composed of seven free, sovereign States”—made so by a struggle with despotism for forty years, and occupying a territory which their ancestors had reclaimed from the ocean and morass by indomitable labor.  It was a republic where freedom of conscience, speech, and the press were complete and universal.  The effect of this freedom had been the internal development of social beauty and strength, and vast increment of substantial wealth and power by immigration.  Wars and despotisms in other parts of Europe sent thousands of intelligent exiles thither, and those free provinces were crowded with ingenious mechanics, and artists, and learned men, because conscience was there undisturbed, and the hand and brain were free to win and use the rewards of their industry and skill.  Beautiful cities, towns, and villages were strewn over the whole country, and nowhere in Europe did society present an aspect half as pleasing as that of Holland.  Every religious sect there found an asylum from persecution and encouragement to manly effort, by the kind respect of all.  And at the very time when the charter of the West India Company was under consideration, that band of English Puritans who afterward set up the ensign of free institutions on the shores of Massachusetts Bay, were being nurtured in the bosom of that republic, and instructed in those principles of civil liberty that became a salutary leaven in the bigotry which they brought with them.

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